Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
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Engine won't stay on unless my foot's on the gas

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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 07:21 AM
  #16  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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On an older battery like that, the sulfation from a complete discharge probably killed it. These aren't meant to go that low, ever. Deep cycle batteries are constructed differently.

Factory battery was 500 CCAs in many XJs. Find something close to that size with the best warranty possible. No need for this 90000 CCA marketing junk that will just short out on a gravel road because the plates are too tightly packed.
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 07:48 AM
  #17  
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From: Eastern Iowa
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
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Update put charger on 10amps for about 4hours starts and idles fine now.Will buy a new battery today anyway.Had no idea a low battery could cause no idle,I thought as long as it was strong enough to start it would be good.Thank every one for you input.
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 08:04 AM
  #18  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Yup the alternator basically drags the engine to a halt!
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 09:14 AM
  #19  
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by millman
Update put charger on 10amps for about 4hours starts and idles fine now.Will buy a new battery today anyway.Had no idea a low battery could cause no idle,I thought as long as it was strong enough to start it would be good.Thank every one for you input.
That is because the alternator is not design to charge a dead battery.
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 09:17 AM
  #20  
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From: Long Island, New York
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 (The best engine ever made)
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Originally Posted by tjwalker
The #1 cause of engine stalling on the 4.0 is a marginal battery. And before you ask, yes....you can have a battery that is strong enough to start the engine, but marginal enough to give the engine management system fits and stall the engine. It happens all the time. If this was a simple battery connection issue, tightening those connections may have resolved your problem, your alternator recharged your battery (you were symptomatic while this was happening....that is why you had to stay on the throttle) and the symptom disappeared as soon as the battery was adequately charged. But if it ever returns, get your battery "load tested". Load testing is the only accurate way of determining battery condition. Any parts store will do this for you for free. Keep us updated!
that's why I like my 96 4.0 because it's distributor ignition, I don't like coil on plug...
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 10:15 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by salad
Factory battery was 500 CCAs in many XJs. Find something close to that size with the best warranty possible. No need for this 90000 CCA marketing junk that will just short out on a gravel road because the plates are too tightly packed.

Yep. A little overkill is not a bad thing thing, like maybe in the 600s.

Don't listen to the people advising something in the 800 - 900 CCA range for these vehicles. Sorry, but that's just a stupid waste of money, like installing # 0000 welding cables for battery cables. It doesn't do anything good for you, functionally.

All they are doing is buying bragging rights. "Look at ME! I've got the biggest! Yay! I'm a MAN!"




Unless you are going to be spending time using a winch with the vehicle off, you don't need or want a deep cycle battery.

If you ARE doing that, the right solution is a second battery with an isolator of some kind.
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Old Oct 19, 2023 | 06:58 PM
  #22  
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Just got a new battery today and mine still cuts off!
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Old Oct 20, 2023 | 06:35 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rosered
Just got a new battery today and mine still cuts off!
To all users of CF:

PLEASE, before posting technical questions, take some time to help others out, by adding details in the user control panel. There's 2 ways to do this. First, in the upper left corner on the front page of the site, is a menu button labeled UserCP.




After you click on that you'll see this menu:





Please take the time to click on the highlighted sections and fill out the vehicle information for your vehicle. The signature link is also helpful for any additional information like mods done, links to your build or other vehicles owned.

This helps EVERYONE out by informing them immediately about your year, make, model, etc.

These details are necessary for responders to accurately answer your questions without guessing or having to ask what are the specifics of the vehicle you are referring to. You can add these details easily and permanently by creating a signature or adding your truck details to your existing signature.

5 minutes of your time doing this now will save a ton of time and effort later.



Thanks!!!

CF staff
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