I have had an engine tick now for a while. I am pretty sure that there is an exhaust leak but now that it has been colder in the mornings the tick will at times get louder for just a moment then quiet down again. also I notice that the tick is coming from the passenger side. could it be a lifter or what else could be making the tick? being that the noise comes from the passenger side of the engine compartment it kind of has me puzzled. thanks for your help.

 

I would think a lifter,or a rocker arm set, exhaust not really sure just because of the ones ive heard dont sound like a tick but thats just me. dont sound like anything to get to upset about. good luck

 

i have the same tick on my 99

 

if the tick gets more rapid with acceleration would that lean more in the direction of a lifter or rocker arm rather than an exhaust leak?

 

my 97 has the same tick... would love to know what it is so I can address it.

 

im pretty sure its a sticky lifter... i may be wrong. another guy said his jeep was ticking and he ran seafoam and it went away

 

I just seafoamed and it did not make a difference. also why would the sound be coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment? another note: it does seem to be a little louder at the bottom of the engine.

 

sounds like you need a valve job, that would be my guess

 

which would be what? sorry if it seems like a dumb question.

 

Actually there are lots of these old 4.0 motors running around with the same tick. Not unusual especially considering alot of them are between 100,000 and 200,000 miles. If it's still running strong I would'nt worry about it too much. The one in the avatar has a tick. I'm not pulling the head because it still runs fine.

I copied this for ya. It pretty much covers it.

Valve job

1. Identify and verify cylinder head and application.
2. Inspect for any obvious cracks or defects.
3. Disassemble, noting locations of various sensors, brackets, plugs, valve rotators, seals, etc. If the head has an overhead cam, index and note the location of followers, lifters (adjusters), etc. Remove all plugs, etc.
4. Inspect for cracks, broken guides, etc.
5. Thoroughly clean the head, springs, valves, and all other parts.
6. Check the head for cracks, using the proper method for the type of head, i.e.: Dye-penetrant for aluminum, magnetic particle for cast iron. Check the head for warp and twist.
7. Inspect valves, discarding those exhibiting excessive stem wear, insufficient margin, cupping, cracks, or any condition making the valve unsuitable for re-use.
8. Reface the valves, making sure to check for insufficient margins when done. Always be sure to refinish the small end of the valve.
9. Check the valve guides for wear. Replace or recondition those that are beyond specs.
10. Recondition the valve seats. Replace those that are pitted or pounded out. Make sure to maintain proper seat location and width by grinding or cutting and using the proper correction angles. Lapping-in of the valves is highly recommended.
11. Check the valve springs. Discard and replace those that do not meet specs.
12. Check all remaining components. Repair or replace those that are damaged or worn.
13. Repair any stripped or damaged bolt holes in the head.
14. Resurface the head if necessary.
15. Clean the head and all related parts thoroughly.
16. Reassemble the head, checking and correcting valve stem installed heig

 

thanks for the input. I think this really helps as I was at first leaning toward an exhaust leak but now I really think it is either a lifter or a valve. engine runs very strong so I will probably just let it go until i'm ready for a rebuild.

 

That would be the road I would take if I were in your position, the 4.0 is a real strong runner that is hard to kill just by a tickin sticky valve.

 

X2