Stabsthedrama

So I got the final quote and engine details. It's going to be out of a 93' with just at 100,000 miles. The shop foreman knows there will be a few things that will need to be used from the Renix, and it definitely didn't sound like it was his first rodeo.

With labor, engine price, and parts (engine mounts, water pump, oil pump, rear main seal, an alternator I have to throw on it) they said they can and will stay under $2000. Honestly, not a bad price, ESPECIALLY for the tristate area where labor rates are a minimum of $75/hr. From the googling I've done, it seems to be on the low side of pricing for a shop-done swap. If I were to do it myself, given that I could even find a decent runner, I'd still be spending about $700-1000 on a decent donor, and a good $300+ on parts, and a few full days of my time, which I simply don't have anymore, let alone a garage.

That would put my total to-date price of the jeep @ $7000. Not too terrible considering that's over 2 years time, and I have very little left to do at this point (tires, and if I feel like budget lifting, but lifting won't cost me over $350).

I suppose once it's all done, I may consider putting it up on CL with all the info of work done (I've kept receipts for the few times it had to go to the shops, and anyone that knows these things would know in 2 seconds of looking at it I'm not playing around, the work has been put into this thing) for $5000 firm. Sounds steep, but for a completely reworked 89', it's a solid price. If it doesn't sell, I keep it. Not in any rush to sell it.

Orlo

In my experience, it's going to be very hard to convince a buyer that they should step up a couple grand higher than normal for a vehicle.

Yes, you've done/will do a ton of work to it. But that's because you owned it and got sucked into spending good money after bad. As I said before, it happens sometimes.

Shoppers become suspicious when someone is offering up a vehicle that they just spent big money for major repairs. Often, there is a good reason to be wary, such as the owner found other major problems and is just trying to bail out without disclosure.

I wish you good luck with the repair and hope that there aren't cost overruns. I think you should count on your back up plan of keeping the rig, because that will be your most likely scenario.

Fred/N0AZZ

At $5k for an 89 you may be enjoying it for some time, but hey everyone needs a good 4x4 to have around.........Or just turn it into a full blown trail rig

Stabsthedrama

Ya I'm already planning on keeping it, which is why I wouldn't care if I sold it or not. It'd be one of those you never know type of things where someone may bite on it.

My wife is really pressuring me to sell my truck, but I'm currently trying to find a storage place for it. Really the best thing to do would be to sell it, but we'll see. It's another vehicle I'd never be able to get what it's worth for it.

The XJ would be ideal to keep anyway, as a backup 4x4 and because it's automatic, which my wife can drive. She loves the thing too, so there's that.

It was just kind of a weird thing getting this job I have now, since I now have a company 4x4 f150. This makes it a little bit less important to have a 4x4, but still having it for the winter would be a good thing.

cruiser54

Give him this and remove any doubt it will work well.

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.


Revised 03/28/13