So here's the story:

This weekend, I started with a few friends my engine swap on my 1994 Jeep Cherokee with a motor from a 1992 Jeep Cherokee I refurb'd myself. We managed to pull out the old motor finally and left the torque converter in the transmission.

We have the "new" motor now at least in the bay, lined up and mating with the transmission along with being bolted to the torque converter again, however now the motor mounts aren't lining up exactly with the holes on the frame; they are off by about a quarter of an inch or so on my count. Any ideas? These are brand new motor mounts too that are the same style.

 

Your engine/converter/transmission is not joined together quite right.

Likely your torque converter is out by that 1/4". It may not be all the way back into its detent(s).

 

With the converter unbolted from the flex plate, you should be able to push it back so there is at least a 1/4 inch of visible space between the flex plate and the torque converter mounting bosses. (With the bellhousing flush against the engine.

If the converter is tight against the flex plate, it may not be seated in the front pump. You should feel three distinct clunks as you rotate the converter and push it into the transmission, the last of which will be the two flats engaging in the front pump.

 

That's what I am thinking; the torque converter is not 100% in the transmission. My father seems to think the new motor mounts I bought are just bad but that doesn't make sense.

What's the easiest way to push the torque converter in?

 

The easiest way is with the tranny standing on end. But that's probably not practical in your situation.

Just slowly turn it while pushing in. Sometimes it's a ***** to engage in the pump with the trans in the vehicle.

 

Okay...so turn it with it bolted to the motor via the flex plate using the crank?

 

I just went through this. I had to support the torque converter on the bottom to keep it from "drooping" from the weight. You have to slowly rotate the converter while applying gentle pressure. As mentioned above, you will feel 3 distinct "clunks" as it lines up with all the splines, and eventually into the two slots for the pump. IDK if you can do that with the engine bolted to the bell housing. I know from past experience, that if you have tried to use the bolts to pull the engine and transmission together, you may have damaged the pump.

 

No... hopefully you don't have everything connected to the motor already.

Pull the motor up and out of the way. Turn the converter with your hands while simultaneously pushing it into the transmission. I'm not real familiar with this particular trans, so I don't know how big the inspection plate is. If you can see the part where the front seal rides, it should be pretty apparent when it's pushed in far enough. you won't be able to see any shiny metal.

When you drop the engine back in, you should be able to bolt up the bellhousing and the converter should spin freely at least a quarter inch away from the flex plate. You'll want to pull the converter toward the flex plate to bolt it up.

If the converter is trying to bend the flex plate when you're snugging up the bellhousing bolts, it's not seated in the front pump. back the engine away and try again.

 

The Motor is "In" already....we discovered the issue once we went to do the motor mounts. The Flexplate and everything seems to be dead on..

 

Ok, by "in" you mean all the wires and hoses and all the crap are hooked up already?

Remove all the bolts from the converter. Can you push it back far enough from the flex plate so it spins freely without touching? If not, I'm sorry, but you're going to have to pull the motor back out. Like the other poster said, it is possible to damage the front pump if it's not seated.

 

Oh no...not that far in yet....right now we just have it in the engine bay but only attached to the flex plate resting on engine mounts that are partially installed while I figured this out. We can pull the motor easily if needed.

 

So then, are the bellhousing bolts in and tight?

 

This is where its weirder, for some reason, the bell housing bolts that are dead center on each side seem to be too short...these are the bolts from the 94 engine...I can't imagine they are some reason longer in the '92.

 

Alright, by that I guess you mean they are not in, or tight (which is a good thing).

When you install the engine and mate it to the transmission, you should not use the bolts to pull the engine and transmission together. They should fit together perfectly before you even put the first bellhousing bolt in.

Step by step... start from the beginning.

1.) (Engine out) Slowly turn the converter by hand while pushing it (upwards a little) in to the transmission. The two notches on the hub are where it engages in the pump (see attached picture). Therefore, there are only two positions, 180 degrees apart, that the converter will engage into the pump. This is why that last step in installing the converter can be so difficult.

As the other poster mentioned, it is helpful to push upwards while turning, to offset the sag from the weight of the converter.

2.) Once you have the converter installed, use some emory paper to remove any burrs from the pilot, wipe it clean, then apply a very thin coat of grease.

3.) Make sure the pilot hole in the end of the crankshaft is clean and free of burrs.

4.) Lower the engine into place and mate it to the transmission. Having someone turn the converter as you do this will help engage the pilot into the crank. The bellhousing should be flush to the engine flange with no visible gaps.

5.) Verify the converter is not binding against the flex plate, then install the bellhousing bolts so they are just past finger tight.

6.) With the engine properly mated and the converter able to spin free with a visible gap between the flex plate and converter mounting pad, pull the converter up to the flex plate and install and torque the bolts to spec.

7.) Torque the bellhousing bolts.

8.) Install and torque the engine mounts.

If at this point, where you are positive the converter is installed correctly and the engine mounts are still a quarter inch off, try loosening the transmission mount and/or crossmember to help push the whole assembly back.

 

Here's the converter pic...