claygrassmann

hey guys its been a while but my jeep crapped on me when i was moving from ny to ohio and im gonna be rebuilding the engine, you any of you know of any good places to get a good rebuild kit or crate or turn key engine? im not really able to spend alot right now or when i get around to doin it so cheap as far as this stuff goes is kinda a good thing but def dont wanna go too cheap and get crappy parts, TIA yall!!!!

EVcherokee

Your gonna get the best over all deal and get the best quality taking it to a machine shop to have it machined and having them or you put it together. Look for a machine shop that is used to building race and custom motors. I'd stay away from big factory rebuilders as their quality standards are lower, because they're usually going for quanity over quality. Their cheaper, but so is harbor freight.

I used to be an auto machinist and we frequently had people bring in rebuilds from autoparts stores, just to make sure they were ok and you'd be surprised the garbage we'd find. A couple times we'd find huge cracks(1/4" wide on one) in the blocks, and heads, even rebuilds from the dealerships are questionable, for example, all the oem rebuilds we tore down to inspect didn't have any break in/rebuild lube in them, just 10-30w..even on the cam!. Also tolerances can vary journal to journal, inconsistant honing, valve guides too loose/questionable etc.. Not all of these rebuilds are bad, but beware and get a warranty, I've seen them grenade at 5K, because of bad parts. High performance crate motors are normally pretty good though.

Unfortunalty the more you spend the more you get. Any motor I rebuilt for me that was a street/strip motor included: Full hot tank of all parts, Magna-flux crack inspection(not dry powder method), K-lined valve guides(bronze alloy valve guide liner good for a few 100K+), Clevite bearings, stainless valves(intake and exhaust), a minimum 3 angle seat grind, new springs/retainers/keepers, milled heads and deck, bored over .030, main line honed(sometimes bored over), chrome moly rings, hyperutectic pistons, fel-pro gaskets and a crane cam with appropriate lifters. Also I always have the rotating assembly balanced and I always replaced connecting rod bolts and crank bolts, I recommend ARB fasteners. If I knew the exhaust bolts were susceptible to breaking(like the 4.0) I heli-coiled all the exhaust bolt holes with stainless inserts. Break-in lube I like is Lubriplate, but Royal Purple makes a great breakin lube too. Remember that Plasti-gauge is just a guide, not a precision tool.

Of course you can get away with much less, I just like to spank my motors, like I spank my broads....have'em take it with a red @ss and a smile beggin' for more

96_xj

i would grab the parts to do a stroker, have it bored over .10 or .20 or if your really crazy .30 over. And build a mild stroker since your going to have to re build it!