ya i did and it threw a 34 which is cruise control circuit and it dont even have cruise control

 

very true mendax i have thought of that but i dont wanna spend the money on another one and it still not work they are expensive lol

 

no 12 or 55

 

have you checked wiring for short to metal when on a incline wires will move around when on different angles gravity works in mysterious ways

 

ya it did show 12 and 55 but i didnt think those would adversly affect it and yes i have wiggled, moved, and taped all wires i thought might be a problems lol and i wanna thank all you guys for all the suggestions

 

even thought you dont have cruise the wiring still there in the harness ive heard other members having issues with wire grounding out from rubbing on the exhaust manifold heat sheild are by fuel pressure regulator area

 

i have checked all thos wires they are fine i did notice that the wiring harness under the clutch mastercylinder looks like some fluid leaked on it from the mastercylinder could that be a problem

 

my clutch master leaked and has raised havoc with my fuse box from the fluid eating away at it causing brake light and raido cutting in and out issues might be worth a look i had to by pass those fuses and use inlines to fix it

 

ok im gonna take that connector apart and spray it all down with electrical cleaner lol if its not fixed by next weekend im gonna sell/trade it for another one

 

good luck

 

With you saying tach doesnt operate properly i would think possibly bad coil?

That or check fuel pressure.

 

well i took the bulkhead connector under the master cylinder still no luck. gonna take it to the shop this week its beyond my intell i guess! it could be a part that i had replaced gone bad i will let them figure out which one

 

On the Cherokee alternator, it switches constantly from charging the battery and running the ignition system.

(look at wiring diagram how alternator is wired through switches, battery and ultimately the coil.)

When the internal regulator switches it is usually seamless, but if it starts failing to switch, usually because of excessive heat, can also be normal heat breakdown; it will not direct voltage to the coil for a second. An engine rotating at X rpm, that could be X number of power strokes missed because coil isn't firing. Thus a hard miss, like the engines cutting out.

When the computer senses this the computer will force the voltage to come from the battery, until voltage drops, and then the alternator picks up the slack, and it happens all over again.

There is no real way to test this, it is only electrical theory and my knowledge of how a charging system works...

I also narrowed it down over a couple weeks eliminated ignition and fuel early on, including the CPS, Check the OHM resistance of the sensors, and so forth.

BTW, this is a one in a million that it would happen that way, usually alternators regulator shorts when switching to charge, and drains the battery. Doesn't usually happen through the coil side of things.