Eliminate the thermostat?
#3
yeh definately dont want to do that....ur motor needs to have proper running temps to operate at its full potential....if ur running hot there is a reason...u need to investigate y and fix the real problem or u will most likely blow it up
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Year: 1992, 2- 1998 (All 3, 4 Doors)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L in all
Actually, you can get rid of the thermostat to run cooler, it's and old racing trick. There isn't a stock car out there with one in it and ANY time (we run restrictors in place of them). It's based on the fact that a cooler engine makes more power and is less prone to early detonation. The problem comes in on a street vehicle, esp. one with and on-board computer/emissions system. That engine and all of it's subsequent sensors and senders are designed to run within a specific range of temperatures, usually 195 or higher, any cooler and it knocks the system all out of whack; any hotter, and well we know what happens then. Way back when, Hypertech used to have thermo's with a cooler opening temp to go along with their performance chips, I'm willing to bet they still have them for use with their power programmers. All that said, you can always start using my favourite cooling system additive also: Water Wetter. I've used it in every race car I've worked on and I use it in all 4 of my cars. It actually dropped the temp in my '98, and drastically dropped the temp in my Monte Carlo. That also based on the fact to flush the system, fill with straight water AND a cooling system cleaner. Run the hell out of it, drain, flush, and fill with the proper mix and the WW. Should have no problem.
Last edited by BowtieGuy3; 11-11-2008 at 08:07 AM.
#6
CF Veteran
i'm with c-loss. it can make you overheat. you need the coolant to stay in the rad to cool it down.
with no t-stat, the coolant will flow continuously through the hot block and not have a chance to cool off in the rad.
growing up i thought running without one helped with overheating. but that's only cause my dad would remove it after it did overheat. but that was just because the t-stat was stuck closed. he should've just replaced it.
and don't use those fail safe things. they will do more damage than good.
with no t-stat, the coolant will flow continuously through the hot block and not have a chance to cool off in the rad.
growing up i thought running without one helped with overheating. but that's only cause my dad would remove it after it did overheat. but that was just because the t-stat was stuck closed. he should've just replaced it.
and don't use those fail safe things. they will do more damage than good.
#7
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Haven't had a thermostat in mine for two years but it does not get cold enough here to need heat in the winter. Mine heats up to normal operating temp but a little slower than a t-stat equipped Jeep.
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#8
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
you guys are effing retarded with the no thermostat nonsense. the racing application makes a tiny bit of sense, but for a street application..? wow.
one, the engine is designed to run at a certain temp, and yes, its hotter than most engines.
two, without reaching operating temp youll never run at optimum efficiency.
three, running that cold all the time is BAD for your engine, so it that prolonged start up time. hows your oil pressure? are you running a 0W-30 bc youre oil will be glue for an hour while your engine tries to get hot.
one, the engine is designed to run at a certain temp, and yes, its hotter than most engines.
two, without reaching operating temp youll never run at optimum efficiency.
three, running that cold all the time is BAD for your engine, so it that prolonged start up time. hows your oil pressure? are you running a 0W-30 bc youre oil will be glue for an hour while your engine tries to get hot.
#9
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
you guys are effing retarded with the no thermostat nonsense. the racing application makes a tiny bit of sense, but for a street application..? wow.
one, the engine is designed to run at a certain temp, and yes, its hotter than most engines.
two, without reaching operating temp youll never run at optimum efficiency.
three, running that cold all the time is BAD for your engine, so it that prolonged start up time. hows your oil pressure? are you running a 0W-30 bc youre oil will be glue for an hour while your engine tries to get hot.
one, the engine is designed to run at a certain temp, and yes, its hotter than most engines.
two, without reaching operating temp youll never run at optimum efficiency.
three, running that cold all the time is BAD for your engine, so it that prolonged start up time. hows your oil pressure? are you running a 0W-30 bc youre oil will be glue for an hour while your engine tries to get hot.
#10
CF Veteran
Actually, you can get rid of the thermostat to run cooler, it's and old racing trick. There isn't a stock car out there with one in it and ANY time (we run restrictors in place of them). It's based on the fact that a cooler engine makes more power and is less prone to early detonation. The problem comes in on a street vehicle, esp. one with and on-board computer/emissions system. That engine and all of it's subsequent sensors and senders are designed to run within a specific range of temperatures, usually 195 or higher, any cooler and it knocks the system all out of whack; any hotter, and well we know what happens then. Way back when, Hypertech used to have thermo's with a cooler opening temp to go along with their performance chips, I'm willing to bet they still have them for use with their power programmers. All that said, you can always start using my favourite cooling system additive also: Water Wetter. I've used it in every race car I've worked on and I use it in all 4 of my cars. It actually dropped the temp in my '98, and drastically dropped the temp in my Monte Carlo. That also based on the fact to flush the system, fill with straight water AND a cooling system cleaner. Run the hell out of it, drain, flush, and fill with the proper mix and the WW. Should have no problem.
I agree, I've ran Water Wetter in many High Out put Dirt Bikes and ATV's I've had. Works great.
You won't over heat but if you live in a area that gets cold you won't heat up very fast either..
#11
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Year: 1992, 2- 1998 (All 3, 4 Doors)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L in all
xW-xx
1st/W digit: viscosity at 32F
2nd Digit: Oil Viscosity
i.e.: 10W-30, flows like 10 weight oil at freezing, but protects like 30 throught the range.
#13
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not here 93XJLI it rarely get below 50 and my oil is fine. My old t-stat locked up closed 2 christmases ago on a Sunday trip. I removed it to get home and never replaced it. I have had zero problems in this climate. Now if I lived where it gets cold then I would put in a new Robertshaw 195* t-stat.
#14
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
Not here 93XJLI it rarely get below 50 and my oil is fine. My old t-stat locked up closed 2 christmases ago on a Sunday trip. I removed it to get home and never replaced it. I have had zero problems in this climate. Now if I lived where it gets cold then I would put in a new Robertshaw 195* t-stat.
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