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Electronic Gurus - Alt Cable To Fusible Link ??

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Old 04-03-2016, 11:16 AM
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Default Electronic Gurus - Alt Cable To Fusible Link ??

I'm in the final stage of cable replacement and lastly is the alt cable/fusible link. Thinking ahead for future fusible link replacement, would this be an acceptable method of connecting them? Fastronix 1/4" distribution stud and ring connectors.....
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Old 04-03-2016, 03:01 PM
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Yes that would work, I would cover up the contacts... Why not just run a fuse holder and 200 amp fuse?
Old 04-03-2016, 07:38 PM
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http://www.crutchfield.com/S-i3854xN...r-180-amp.html
Old 04-03-2016, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JPXJMOAB
Why not just run a fuse holder and 200 amp fuse?

That would be my preference. I don't much care for fusible links. Factories use them because they save a few bucks on an assembly line.


Fusible links are normally crimped inline. If you use fusible links, that's the way to go.
Old 04-03-2016, 08:16 PM
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200 Amp fuse? What would be the purpose of a 200 Amp fuse in place of a fusible link?


Read up on the purpose of a fusible link.
Old 04-03-2016, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
200 Amp fuse? What would be the purpose of a 200 Amp fuse in place of a fusible link?


Read up on the purpose of a fusible link.
A 200 amp fuse between the battery and alternator instead of a fuseable link is what I recommended.
Old 04-03-2016, 08:34 PM
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Fusible links, fuses, and circuit breakers all perform the same basic function. Each has its pluses and minuses.

Fusible links aren't the best possible solution, they are the best possible solution for the manufacturer's needs.

That doesn't mean they are the best possible solution for the auto enthusiast.
Old 04-04-2016, 06:13 AM
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But why 200 Amps?
Old 04-04-2016, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
But why 200 Amps?
So that when something shorts and burns up .... it doesn't destroy the fuse?
Old 04-04-2016, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
But why 200 Amps?


I suggested a 180 amp breaker.

If you have an alt at 160 amp..........breakers are also for overrun of a circuit, not just a ground-out.

If the alt/regulator fails and overruns.......over supplies amps......as does happen, breaker kills the circuit.

Too low of a breaker and it will kill the circuit unnecessarily.
Old 04-04-2016, 09:04 AM
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Crow,


What is your alternator rated at (Amps)?
Old 04-04-2016, 03:23 PM
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Fusible links work more or less like a slow blow fuse. There are fuses that are built to function as a fusible link which primarily protects the circuit between the alternator and the battery, secondarily it protects the fuse box which has it's own main fuses for incoming power.

There are mega fuses that are designed to work the same or similar to a fusible link. Some Earlier XJ's that used a mega fuse in front of the fuse box. I read there were customer complaints about the mega fuse randomly blowing so Jeep switched the to a fusible link which is able to heat up somewhat and less likely to fail prematurely.

Primarily the alternator and battery need protection, which is the primary function of a fusible link or fuse circuit designed to work the same as a fusible link.

Last edited by Muddz; 04-04-2016 at 05:39 PM.
Old 04-04-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CCKen
Crow,


What is your alternator rated at (Amps)?
117 amps.............

My choice in using a fusible link was based on budget. The "formula" for choosing a fusible link is 4 numbers (or 2 sizes) smaller than the cable. I'm using 4 gauge marine cable so a 8 gauge fusible link would be in order....

From what I've read, crimping then soldering is the preferred method of splicing, but that doesn't make future replacement easy. With this in mind, I selected the post with ring connectors so a replacement would be easy (I'll carry spares). I doubt that I'll have trouble with this setup as the original one has lasted 17 years without issue. Fusible links are more tolerable of an accidental wrench coming in contact with an energized contact.....

I think a 200 amp fuse would be way too large and protect very little in my case.......

I like the breaker idea but my concerns were reliability, corrosion resistance, and cost.....

Last edited by Crow Horse; 04-04-2016 at 05:24 PM.
Old 04-04-2016, 06:02 PM
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Default My fuse from the alt to the battery

The nice thing about this is if I need to test voltage for any reason coming from the alternator, I just touch the wire to the ground and I know what's going on.

150 amp for a 117 amp alt (upgraded from a 90)
Also did all my power and grounds as well with 2AWG
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Crow Horse
117 amps.............

My choice in using a fusible link was based on budget. The "formula" for choosing a fusible link is 4 numbers (or 2 sizes) smaller than the cable. I'm using 4 gauge marine cable so a 8 gauge fusible link would be in order....

From what I've read, crimping then soldering is the preferred method of splicing, but that doesn't make future replacement easy. With this in mind, I selected the post with ring connectors so a replacement would be easy (I'll carry spares). I doubt that I'll have trouble with this setup as the original one has lasted 17 years without issue. Fusible links are more tolerable of an accidental wrench coming in contact with an energized contact.....

I think a 200 amp fuse would be way too large and protect very little in my case.......

I like the breaker idea but my concerns were reliability, corrosion resistance, and cost.....

The length of the fusible link wire has to be jus right as well as the gauge.


Don't ask me how to figure it out, I've looked everywhere for the Ampacity of fusible link wire and can't find it. You're right though, 2 sizes smaller. Just keep the new wire the same length as the original I guess.


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