That's likely. Check the belts for proper tension (no, that doesn't mean to crank the belts so tight that they sing!), and measure the voltage at idle. Watch it for a bit. That will tell you a lot.

 

As long as the alternator is putting in 12.5 volts or more at idle that should keep that battery charged. There has to be a certain amount of amp draw before the voltage regulator in the alternator starts the charging process. When it starts charging, your idle speed should level out to compensate for the pull of the alternator. When the engine rpms increase voltage output should increase also up to around 13.5 volts. If your having excessive high reading on the output voltage then it sounds like the voltage regulator in alternator is causing the problem. If all the charging system seems fine and the battery is good but your still having a cranking problem. I would check the big cable going to the starter at each end. Peel the insulation back and check for corrosion. Also already mentioned check the grounds for the same problem.

 

In addition to having the alternator bench checked (post 15), check the Battery Temperature Sensor, located under the battery and connected to the battery tray.

The Battery Temp Sensor is used to vary the battery charging rate by sensing the battery temperature. This temperature data, along with data from PCM monitored line voltage, is used by the PCM to vary the battery charging rate. System voltage will be higher at colder temperatures and is gradually reduced at warmer temperatures.

To check the temp sensor, disconnect the temp sensor pigtail from the body harness located behind the battery. Using a digtal Ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the temp sensor by probing both pin cavities in the pigtail harness to the temp sensor. The resistance should be between 9,000 and 11,000 Ohms at an ambient temp of between 75-80*F. The resistance will go up as the ambient temp goes down. If the resistance is very high it is telling the PCM the battery is cold and the PCM will regulate the alternator voltage output higher than it should be.

If the temp sensor resistance is too high or too low, replace the temp sensor.

~~~~~~~~

The voltmeter on the instrument cluster is driven by a microprocessor in the instrument cluster. The PCM sends voltage data it picks up from the alternator line voltage to the instrument cluster via the CCD Bus. The instrument cluster processor drives the voltmeter to the respective PCM input data point(s).

There is no dedicated ground for the voltmeter itself.

 

Had alternator checked and it was only putting out 39 amps.

 

I just finished changing the alternator and hopped in to start it up but nothing. No clicking or nothing. Battery is fully charged and all the connectors that I unhooked I hooked back up. Belt is on correctly. Tried starting in neutral and same thing. Also tried bypassing the solenoid and got it to spark a few times but still nothing? Think the starter just took a crap also?

 

Now I don't have any power to dash. Battery shows right at 12v

 

Tried jumping the starter terminals yet?

 

Yes. Only sparked once or twice. After that it acted like it didn't have any power going to it but it had 12v

 

Anybody? Need this out of garage.

 

Have you checked your battery cables? They might be corroded inside the jacket.

 

Yes they are fine

 

Check ground cables, also try jumping directly to starter.

 

Went and double checked some wires and the battery ground came loose in terminal. Replaced the cable but still couldn't get starter do engage by turning key. I could get it to turn by using a screwdriver though. I tried switching around relays and fuses but same thing.

 

Bump

 

Turned out to be the ground issue and the nss.....