I've got a strange issue with my wiring (I think).
I went to open the passenger window from the driver's switch and nothing happened. I leaned across to see if the switch on the front passenger door would work (wondering if the lockout switch had failed) but it wound down just fine. So did the rear passenger side window.
Then I tried to wind them up again and nothing happened. I haven't tried the driver's rear passenger window because I want at least one side of the Jeep to be waterproof!

Does anyone know where I should start looking to fix the following?

1. Driver's window works fine
2. No control of the other three windows from the driver's door
3. Passenger windows wind down but not up
4. And for a bonus, Driver's window lockout switch works fine. It stops the windows winding down when pressed.
5. Front passenger door lock switch is fine for lock/unlock

 

I had the same problem and replaced the driver side control module that is in the armrest.. that fixed it. There's a bunch of them out there, iirc I got mine off ebay for $20. Had it in for over a year now and it was working fine, but in the last month the Jeep started intermittently not locking the doors when I press the all-lock button, and it won't let me manually lock either.

When I was doing research there was also the possibility there was a short from a frayed wire in the harness that goes through the driver door into the body.

Hope this helps

 

My WJ has had problems with windows not working if the driver's door was open, but worked fine if it was closed. Pop the door latch at night and the module lights go out. Close the door and everything works fine. Turns out the main supply wire (Big black one) was broken inside the insulation and would only make contact when the door was closed. Freaky huh? After fixing that, the master window lock button quit working so no windows would work except from the driver's door module. I went to the junkyard and got another module.

 

Thanks Folks. I've definitely been into the drivers door harness and replaced some wires in there in the past. Maybe there's an issue there again. I'm confused by the drivers switch pack as the lockout seems to work fine, but I guess there could be something funky in there that needs proper diagnosis.
Time for the multimeter.

 

The major problem is the lead free solder they used tends to crack over time. You can save the switch module by opening it up and adding a touch of electronic leaded solder from an iron to what is already there. Just wet your iron with the leaded solder and heat the board until it flows. A small pencil iron works the best, not a gun.

 

Yep, I took my original one apart and the solder connections were cracked.. I also broke the switch holder taking it apart, so instead of re-soldering I just got the new one.