zman32006

I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee and when I bought the jeep the passenger and rear window controls didnt work but the passenger door lock worked. Just the other day I had my driver window down and now that control module thingy stopped working and my window is stuck down. I would say its the wiring but my speakers work and door locks work on my passenger side. I think the multi switch thing on the drivers side just went out. any way to test this? or just replace and check?

Aimless Rambler

Had similar problem with mine.

Per previous threads >>> Repaired power window problem on passenger door. It would only roll down half way and make horrible noises in the process. Removed door panel and discovered that the plastic tube guide deal had fallen off and the pipe cleaner looking gear was binding when it hit the bottom of the door frame. The plastic tube guide being old and hard didn't want to slide back onto gear channel so pulled out my cigarette lighter and heated her up. Slid back into place easy as pie. Sprayed a little lubricant up tube and on guide. Works like a charm ... goes up quick even.

I'd suggest investigating the gear mechanism if you believe the motor is actually working. There is also a fuse you may want to check ... it may be simple as that.

91 limited owner

Check the wiring that goes between door and body (inside the rubber sleeve), odds are that where your problem lies. I would start at driver door switch with a volt meter. (must used door, and set of switches) Checking to see if you get power, If each switch works properly, working back wards to find out where your power stops. If ever thing is working in the drivers switch.

zman32006

ok ill be sure to check that stuff today. Its weird because I could roll down all my windows from my drivers side switches but the passenger side or rear ones didnt work. now it just up and died on the drivers side with the window stuck down. I hate hate hate electrical crap. my whole jeep needs to be rewired I swear.

zman32006

so I need a way to put my window back up without poser to the motor because I cant tell if the motor is working and I have no power to my control box on the door but all the fuses are good. so weird. I hate wiring HELP PLEASE!!

93~~XJ

Always remember to slow down and take your time when dealing with wiring.

Find the wire supplying the main power window panel and write down what color theme it has. Then simply follow it back, through the wire loom and locate it where it enters the cab. Checking the wire with a meter along the way.

zman32006

do you know of a way to get the window back up? Id much rather it be stuck up than down. so far ive checked and seen that Im not getting power to my switch. but all my fuses are good.

93~~XJ

The best way to get the window up is to repair the wire. Follow the wire between the power window control and fuse box. You will find the problem.

Check it with a multi-meter.

littleredXJ

If the motor is still good you can just run power to it straight from a battery (cordless drill batts work well). That will keep you from getting rained on until you can fix it.

93~~XJ

That is a great point.
Also, to insure you dont cause any more damage to anything else, make sure to disconnect the wires to the motor first. You don't want to backfeed any voltage to anything else.

zman32006

I tore the whole door apart and everything after I saw that the best way to fix it was to repair the wire. turns out behind the electrical tape 2 wires were broken. Black, Ground, and Tan/purple, Hot, so its all good now just gotta put it back together after work tonight. fun stuff. Thanks for all yalls help guys!

Vitality62

i have a 91 cherokee laredo and the windows would only work when they wanted, when they didnt none of the windows or switches worked just the lock buttons, i read this post and checked the wires in the boot between the door and frame.


Found it!

thank you guys

(i just noticed the red wire looking at the picture..)

1976gmc20

Okay, guys - I have a window stuck mostly down, but there is power to the motor.


1989 XJ


I unplugged the connector from the switch, and one of the sockets is hot when the key switch is on. I used a jumper wire to other sockets and on two of them (up and down?) I get spark and the blower motor slows down. So it acts like the motor is fried and/or the mechanism is stuck.


It is Winter and we need this vehicle every day, so I need to find a way to get the window back up and just leave it up (no more checking mail box through the window).


At this point, I am willing to just disconnect the motor drive and prop the window up with a stick inside the door. I do have the inner liner off and I can't figure out what is what through the tiny hole in the inner metal panel.

moparado

Are you saying the motor won't run using the switch? You don't mention.
Its not exactly clear at least to me where you jumpered to and from.
What does that mean, the motor slows down? Does it stop?
When jumpering and it 'slows down', does the window even try to budge a little?
So many questions!

If the window moves or tries to move when jumpering but stops, sounds like it could be a bind or a broken window regulator.
I wouldn't rule out a toasted motor either. My window regulator motor failed at around 290k miles.
Check out this website.

http://www.steigerperformance.com/dif.cgi?SP12001

1976gmc20

The heater blower motor runs when the key switch is turned on, which it has to be for the windows to work.


The window doesn't try to move at all, either from the switch or as described below.


I pulled the plug off the back of the window switch in the RH door. It has 5 sockets, one of which goes hot when the key is on. Using a "jumper" of a short wire stripped on both ends, shorting from the hot socket to either of two of the other sockets sparks and causes the heater blower to slow down (key on but engine not running). I assume these are up and down wires, but the window motor doesn't even groan although it is obvious there is a significant current draw. I assume the other two wires are from the drivers door switch for the RH window (that switch also has no effect on the RH window).


So it appears the (cable?) window mechanism is jammed and/or the motor is fried (as a result?).


At this point, I think that I am just going to take out the bolt that holds the bottom of the glass to the slider, and cut a board to jam the window glass all the way up.