Afternoon, I have two questions. The first is that I have a new problem as of yesterday. At start there's no problem but at operating temp the electric fan seems to put out a lot of vibration and noise. Plus when this is happening the engine starts to overheat if not moving, and it idles at nearly a grand versus the normal just above 750.

The second is just some tips for replacing distributor cap and rotor. I had done a tune up a few months ago and replaced air filter/plugs/wires but was hesitant about the cap and rotor. This is more a lack of know how. I know that the distributor controls timing, and I don't want to mess it up. When I look at the sections of my Haynes manual I get cold feet about this one. I do realize that labeling the wires is a simple first step. But from there?

Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Both the cap and rotor will only fit on the dizzy one way.

Might want to replace both the efan and the fan clutch on the belt driven fan.

 

replaced the cap and rotor today, it was pretty corroded in there. thanks for the reassurance.

i unplugged the electrical fan since it had that bad wobble. just to hope we can keep moving and not heat up too much. i did the check on the fan clutch and it does not rotate freely when cold. so i am looking at the zj upgrade i've seen that floats across the board. it seems a reasonably priced upgrade. any thoughts?

 

We experimented with a HD fan clutch (not a ZJ clutch)......way too noisy, constant fan roar. That makes for both reduced power to the wheels and less mpg.

 

Thanks, I appreciate the insight.

 

Man, you weren't exaggerating either. Just did an HD and after one day of driving i am taking this thing off ASAP. So loud

 

Replaced fan clutch and electric fan today. Still seemed to get warm. Seemed like the coolant was pretty low, like expansion bottle empty low. Had searched for a coolant burp kit at local shops, couldn't find one.

 

Burp kit? I wouldnt worry about any of that. Check every aspect of your cooling system if it hasnt been maintained in a while. Check radiator for leaks, hoses, check your freeze plugs on the engine block beneath the intake and exhaust manifolds. Get a mirror under there and check them best as you can. Look for any coolant leaks at the end of the bellhousing underneath.

As for the fan--were the tabs in the slots at the bottom? I have an issue with mine where I can't get the one tab to sit in the metal frame below. Then again, I'm not sure if that fan ever runs, lol..

 

yes, it took a minute to ensure the clips at the bottom of both the viscous fan shroud and electric fan were seated properly. the intake side of the electric fan was tough to check because the steering box is in the line of sight from below, would have been easier if i had an inspection mirror. i assume you mean the electric fan bottom. if you're having trouble with the spacing, check and double check. if you had to, shave/file some of that portion of the clip at the bottom so that it fits in. Maybe its the wrong fan? if you check that electric fan turns on at the top of the temp band.

 

Well, test drive says my temp rests at 10deg high and rising unless moving, idles high(1k). Coolant no longer green, silty river brown. Pulled oil fill cap smells heavy of fuel. Say mother****ing goodnight.

 

Definitely sounds like a victim of stop-leak additive. I just went through all of that with my XJ. Had to get a new radiator, a few new hoses, new freeze plugs, flush the block and everything in between including your heater core...which is the last remaining victim of my stop-leak fiasco, and the most complicated to replace unfortunately.

What does fuel smell under the oil cap indicate? Not sure on that one.

 

Soundss like clutch fans bad ,radiator needs good flushing and change the oil.