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Durango steering box?

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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 09:58 PM
  #31  
dukie564's Avatar
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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no difference. You need the same box as a 4x4 Cherokee for your 4x2.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 10:01 PM
  #32  
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From: Western Washington
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Great, Dukie. Thanks for your help. This may be the next thing on the list.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 08:58 AM
  #33  
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From: NorCal
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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So I know it's been a minute sonce this thread was posted on last, buuuut...
Im in the middle of this project now.
Lessons learned so far...
A couple hours is NOT enough time for penetrating oil to work. It just makes a mess.
You WILL break a pitman arm puller, so just rent one.
The top bolt on the steering box is an absolute bastard.
The pitman arm puller works to pop off the draglink also.
You really do need an 18mm wrench to get those power steering lines off.
The old box will NEVER run out of fluid to leak, so take it to wherever you're exchanging it in a bucket.

So far I've progressed to getting the new box mounted w one bolt. (ran out of time/light)

Anybody have tips for finishing up?
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 09:20 AM
  #34  
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From: Van Buren Arkansas, was Joplin Missouri
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by slimjimvinny
So I know it's been a minute sonce this thread was posted on last, buuuut...
Im in the middle of this project now.
Lessons learned so far...
A couple hours is NOT enough time for penetrating oil to work. It just makes a mess.
You WILL break a pitman arm puller, so just rent one.
The top bolt on the steering box is an absolute bastard.
The pitman arm puller works to pop off the draglink also.
You really do need an 18mm wrench to get those power steering lines off.
The old box will NEVER run out of fluid to leak, so take it to wherever you're exchanging it in a bucket.

So far I've progressed to getting the new box mounted w one bolt. (ran out of time/light)

Anybody have tips for finishing up?
Mine was a pita but I finished in a half day with hand tools. Hardest thing was getting the steering shaft on. Rest was a breeze.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 09:23 AM
  #35  
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Mine went quick and simple... 45 min or so. But I didn't have to fight bolts and had new grade 8 bolts/washers which helped.

I hvae seen penetrating oil work in 10-15 mins... just depends on how bad the bolts are stuck/siezed..
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 11:35 AM
  #36  
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From: Eh infusion
Year: 2000
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Engine: The legendary inline 6, haven't done anything here yet
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Originally Posted by slimjimvinny
So I know it's been a minute sonce this thread was posted on last, buuuut...
Im in the middle of this project now.
Lessons learned so far...
A couple hours is NOT enough time for penetrating oil to work. It just makes a mess.
You WILL break a pitman arm puller, so just rent one.
The top bolt on the steering box is an absolute bastard.
The pitman arm puller works to pop off the draglink also.
You really do need an 18mm wrench to get those power steering lines off.
The old box will NEVER run out of fluid to leak, so take it to wherever you're exchanging it in a bucket.

So far I've progressed to getting the new box mounted w one bolt. (ran out of time/light)

Anybody have tips for finishing up?
Line wrenches are best but the return line is easier because you can just remove it from the top where it attaches to the fill bottle and slide a closed wrench over top. Break it with a reg wrench and then use a gear wrench if you can it'll make it go a lot quicker I broke 2 pairs of pitman arm pullers but if you buy something with a life time warranty you can just exchange them
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 11:51 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
Mine went quick and simple... 45 min or so. But I didn't have to fight bolts and had new grade 8 bolts/washers which helped.

I hvae seen penetrating oil work in 10-15 mins... just depends on how bad the bolts are stuck/siezed..
What length bolts did you use? Did you get a new mounting plate?
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 11:57 AM
  #38  
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
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Originally Posted by CherokeeChick
What length bolts did you use? Did you get a new mounting plate?
I used 4.5" grade 8's. Cant remember the thread pitch off hand. I have a JCR spacer plate (comes with bolts if you order it that way)
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 12:02 PM
  #39  
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From: AURORA, CO
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6 high output
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I have the box now. I'm just not getting it in til after I have my driveshaft rebuilt... driving in front wheel drive right now...
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 12:25 PM
  #40  
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From: shawnee,ks
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Random ??, same box in all 99's right? Like v6 and v8
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 12:27 PM
  #41  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
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Originally Posted by wiggles
Random ??, same box in all 99's right? Like v6 and v8
nope has to be a V8 (either one) and 4x4.
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 12:34 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
nope has to be a V8 (either one) and 4x4.
correct!
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 12:50 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by bopeep94
I have the box now. I'm just not getting it in til after I have my driveshaft rebuilt... driving in front wheel drive right now...
How far is Colorado from buffalo? My drive shaft got shipped from standard auto wreckers There lol there wern't any in Canada when I snapped mine!
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Old Feb 21, 2012 | 12:51 PM
  #44  
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It was funny it looked like my truck was hung like a horse lol or a unicorn lol

Last edited by CherokeeChick; Feb 21, 2012 at 12:56 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #45  
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Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0 I6
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So, everything's done. It works!
I moved from the garage to a parking apace, and I think I still heard the "pop" I was hearing before. Grrr...
But, I only put 2 of the steering box bolts back in cuz one was bent. I plan on replacing all 3 today with new ones.
Can a missing bolt let the box move enough for me to hear it? It's the top one.
Also...
I couldn't get my pitman arm bolted on as tightly on the new box as the old one. I can see in a pic above that there's space between the arm and box, and it's about as much space as I have, but I don't have as many threads sticking out the bottom. Is that cool?
Aaaand, when I reattached the steering shaft to the input shaft new box, I can still see some splines on the input shaft. It doesn't seem like the steering shaft joint/bolt thing is supposed to go all the way down. Is this correct?

Thanks for the help guys, I'm used to working on VW's...
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