Working on the daughter's jeep, 91 laredo, rebuilding calipers and changing hoses.

I broke one of the calipers, and replaced it.

I have bled brakes many times, but the SOBs are kicking my butt. Is there some magical Jeep trick?

I get an anemic shot of fluid out of the bleeder screw, but no afterglow of pressure.

I read in the other guy's thread that you need to bleed the rear first, but I didn't do anything to the rear. Also, the rear brakes still work once the pedal hits the floor.

What the heck am I doing wrong?

Master cylinder is new, BTW.

Here is my dumb question: Obviously this is a used vehicle. When taking off one of the calipers, I noticed that the guide bolt was JB welded into the stripped out hole. After welding, annealing, and re- tapping the hole, I re-installed it.

Is the bleed screw supposed to be above or below the hydraulic line? On mine, it is below. I wonder if the JB genius put the calipers on the wrong sides.

 

Bleeder is always on top.

 

yeah... that makes sense. As I already knew...


Dammit.

I didn't even look at the orientatation, I just pulled them and put them back in the same hole.

 

pretty sure the MC has air in it.

 

Did you bench-bleed the MC before install? It's not too late if you didn't. You can do it in-car. Additionally, you may want to line-bleed before securing the banjo fittings - just crack the lines one at a time with pressure applied to pedal - you know the routine - then move on to the bleeders for that final burping of the baby...

 

It sucks that the caliper bolt hole was stripped out. Did you do the thread repair in-car? I just pulled both knuckles (thankfully not too difficult) last night so I can repair my brake pad slides. I priced the knuckles before starting the job (because I actually thought I might replace them) and it didn't take me long to decide on repairing the existing ones. New knuckles were quoted as being about $375 each but this repair job will be free, except for my time and some running-around gas.

 

Yeah, I just dragged the welder and grinder over and filled the hole up, smoothed it out, and put the torch on it to soften it up a little. Less time than taking it off.

The Master cylinder hasn't been removed lately, so there is no air up there. I mentioned that I had replaced it so that folks wouldn't count it as a symptom... I replaced it 6 months ago.

 

yup, bleeders need to be above the flex line. so there's your problem.

and still start bleeding with the passenger side rear, then drivers rear, passenger front, then drivers front.

and i'd replace that jb caliper for the 30 bux it would cost.

cheers.

 

Well, I swapped them over today, and after a bit of bleeding air, I can plant your face against the windshield.

Thanks guys.

 

Ouch!

LOL, glad you got it fixed.