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Dropping the oil pan.

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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 06:09 PM
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From: Sierra Vista AZ
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
Default Dropping the oil pan.

Is there a trick to dropping the oil pan on a 4.0 after its been drained and all the fasteners have been removed? I need to drop it so I can replace my leaky rear main seal. I have a feeling its gonna give me trouble as it won't break its seal.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 06:34 PM
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Start dropping the axle by removing track bar, shocks, etc and tap it with a rubber mallet to unseat it from the gasket.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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My XJ has a 4.5 inch lift...think ill be able drop the pan without needing to have the axle droop?
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 07:11 PM
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Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by blue_on_blackXJ
Start dropping the axle by removing track bar, shocks, etc and tap it with a rubber mallet to unseat it from the gasket.
I dont see what you would need to do all of that. Thats a GOOD amount of work..I know since I literally just did all of that today with my lift. I now have a 3.5" lift.

I realllyy dont see what the need if for that. I'd just unbolt it fully and knock it off..I'd use my hammer and a block since I dont have a rubber one and I'm too cheep.
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Zacks98

I dont see what you would need to do all of that. Thats a GOOD amount of work..I know since I literally just did all of that today with my lift. I now have a 3.5" lift.

I realllyy dont see what the need if for that. I'd just unbolt it fully and knock it off..I'd use my hammer and a block since I dont have a rubber one and I'm too cheep.
Because once you get the pan separated from the block it gets hung up between the bell housing cover and track bar/axle. I did the rear main on my old XJ with 4.5" lift and was barely able to get it in and out. And that still took a whole Hell of a lot of staring, cussing, and experimenting. In my case the front of the pan was stopped by the steering stabilizer on the drag link end and the bell housing cover. I didn't drop the axle at all, left the jeep on all four tires. I don't see how it would be possible on a stock height rig without getting the axle lower. Start with sway bar and shocks. Then track bar if that's not enough. Then start going to steering if you still need more. You shouldn't need to take off the control arms. There is a reason why a shop will charge a lot to do a rear main, and this is why.
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 06:04 AM
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From: Dayton, Ohio
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Originally Posted by blue_on_blackXJ

Because once you get the pan separated from the block it gets hung up between the bell housing cover and track bar/axle. I did the rear main on my old XJ with 4.5" lift and was barely able to get it in and out. And that still took a whole Hell of a lot of staring, cussing, and experimenting. In my case the front of the pan was stopped by the steering stabilizer on the drag link end and the bell housing cover. I didn't drop the axle at all, left the jeep on all four tires. I don't see how it would be possible on a stock height rig without getting the axle lower. Start with sway bar and shocks. Then track bar if that's not enough. Then start going to steering if you still need more. You shouldn't need to take off the control arms. There is a reason why a shop will charge a lot to do a rear main, and this is why.
Ah i see
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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From: Sierra Vista AZ
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Dropped the pan this morning with all 4 wheels still on the ground with no suspension touched or disconnected. Just has to "persuade" the oil pan to give up its adhesion to the engine block. Only thing that posed a minuscule problem was the tranny lines. Pushed them out and the pan slid right out.

Hope its just as easy to Reinstall.
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