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Drive shaft problem

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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 07:26 PM
  #16  
trans_am7935's Avatar
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From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
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A MANUAL transmission cross member will also give you a 3/4 of in an inch drop on a auto car. the longer driveshaft is you best bet. how long is your driveshaft in the rear (measure from center u-joint to center u-joint)
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 06:04 PM
  #17  
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First time posting for me.. But wanted to share some information in hopes that it might help somebody down the road...

I was off roading in my jeep and got a huge vibration shortly after. Took it to my mechanic and was told the bad news, had to replace my front drive shaft. After almost loosing my mind when I heard some of the prices for a new part I knew I was gonna have to dish out some cash until I was refered to an on line company that specializes in drive shafts by a co worker. Gotta say couldnt be happier!, got my new drive shaft for a fraction of the price and the guy on the phone actually walked me thru the process of switching it out.

Hope this helps somebody...

www.wholesaleimportparts.com

Last edited by jeepsRmee; Feb 21, 2013 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 04:24 PM
  #18  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
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Originally Posted by jeepsRmee
I was off roading in my jeep and got a huge vibration shortly after.
I often have this happen also

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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 11:41 PM
  #19  
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i recently purchased a 2000 xj
driving home tonight i heard the engine rev real hard then a big bang.
pulled over looked, didn't see anything or smell anything (no smoke no dripping fluids nothing)
only a few blocks from home i decided ill put it in gear and roll home real easy and check it in then morning
that plan got screwed up real quick
as soon as i put it in gear another loud bang and now put the truck back in park but it kept rolling but i still had full steering and foot brake

I'm pretty much useless when it comes to any kind of auto repair
i chocked the tires and turned the wheel against the curb against gravity so it won't roll anywhere now
i check under the truck again and now there is what i believe to be the drive shaft hanging down onto the pavement
its connected to the truck under the seats (4 door) and no longer connected to the the axle (at least i think it connects to the axle)
I'm good with my hands and figuring things out just need a little guidance on what actually is wrong and how to fix it.
of anyone can please help me figure out what is wrong that would be greatly appreciated seeing as i don't want to pay a shop for work that i can handle on my own
please help! lol
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 11:56 PM
  #20  
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From: Pa
Year: 1992
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Your driveshaft fell off maybe a ujoint broke it's suppose to look like this. And it should just pull out of the transmission/transfer case end with your hands. Name:  rubicon-driveshaft-diagram.gif
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 01:42 PM
  #21  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
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yea pull the driveshaft out of the transmission end, then put the truck in 4HI to drive it home. Post photos of the axle end
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 12:45 PM
  #22  
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Drive shaft problem-img_6122.jpg

Drive shaft problem-img_6129.jpg

Drive shaft problem-img_6130.jpg

Drive shaft problem-img_6118.jpg


universal joint is being fixed for 60 dollars..
I'm having trouble figuring out what axle i have
from what I've gathered its ether a dana 35 or chrysler 8.25
how do i tell which one? its necessary for finding the replacement yolk right?

Last edited by mbrad24; Aug 25, 2015 at 12:47 PM. Reason: missing info
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 12:54 PM
  #23  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by mbrad24
universal joint is being fixed for 60 dollars..
I'm having trouble figuring out what axle i have
from what I've gathered its ether a dana 35 or chrysler 8.25
how do i tell which one? its necessary for finding the replacement yolk right?
Axle is a Chrysler 8.25 (flat bottom tab)

You should be able to extract the strap bolts and replace them instead of replacing the entire yoke, unless it's damaged where the ujoint rests. If you need to replace the yoke, make sure the nut gets tightened to exactly the same spot (mark it before taking it off) - the 8.25 uses a crush sleeve for bearing preload, and if it's not set right you'll roast the gears or worse.
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Old Aug 25, 2015 | 10:33 PM
  #24  
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That looks like fun. I personally think it's easier to replace the yoke than screwing with trying to get snapped bolts out. Don't know if you can buy new U staps but obviously you need a rear driveshaft universal joint and if you do replace the yoke it should be 1 1/4 inch nut. Get a half inch ratchet, deep socket, and pipe for leverage put the e brake on all the way and crank it off. Like dukie564 said mark the nut with something before you take it off! Even count how many revolutuions it spun if need be. If you go to a junkyard for the yoke 1997-2001 cherokee with the flat bottom rear axle will fit. 1987-1996 i'm not positive if they are the same length or use the same universal joint size.

Last edited by JeepsAreForSpeed; Aug 25, 2015 at 10:38 PM.
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Old Aug 26, 2015 | 09:44 AM
  #25  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
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straps are cheap and can be had at any auto parts store. Those broken bolts should come out super easy with an extractor. Way more work to swap the yoke - you definitely want an impact wrench to remove that nut, especially as rusty as that one looks.
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