drilling ignition cylinder
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 614
Likes: 205
From: Prescott, AZ
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
AH! I've never seen a car that needs the key turned to disassemble.
In other applications I've seen locks drilled the same way the key goes in. After enough hogging around in there the pins, or in this case wafers, are damaged enough that the cylinder will turn.
There is a decent chance that putting a very large flat blade screw driver in there and turning real hard will break off the gates on the wafers and let it turn, but I don't know that for certain. And if they are building them this weird now, then I expect there is every chance that the whole thing is far too flimsy to withstand this without breaking the whole column.
Edit: There are a couple dozen youtube videos about how to do this. Seems like a common problem on a Ford. That would explain why I've never had the problem.
In other applications I've seen locks drilled the same way the key goes in. After enough hogging around in there the pins, or in this case wafers, are damaged enough that the cylinder will turn.
There is a decent chance that putting a very large flat blade screw driver in there and turning real hard will break off the gates on the wafers and let it turn, but I don't know that for certain. And if they are building them this weird now, then I expect there is every chance that the whole thing is far too flimsy to withstand this without breaking the whole column.
Edit: There are a couple dozen youtube videos about how to do this. Seems like a common problem on a Ford. That would explain why I've never had the problem.
Last edited by doublechaz; May 18, 2021 at 08:49 PM.
so its out. i got rid of the cromed cap with a die grinder and drilled in three steps to 1/2". the big drill almost broke my arm, it was catching real bad. i was able to turn the remainder of the cylinder to the position where i could push up the latch from below,but it didnt come out. then i managed to turn it to the position where the inner part would come out and after some help from the inside tha outer cylinder finally came out after being hung up half way for a while. it took me about two hours, including turning a centering addapter for the drill. the biggest problem was grabbing the cylinder from inside, with a right tool the procedure might have been easier (my spreading pliers were too big). i also covered everything up carefully, so there is not much mess.
what had happened is that i put in a new cylinder (doorman) and it jamed as soon as it was in. my suspition is that some debris in the housing might have caused the whole thing to bind, but i dont really know.
edit: oh, and you cant drill much beyond the platelets, because there seems to some hardened obstruction further in.
what had happened is that i put in a new cylinder (doorman) and it jamed as soon as it was in. my suspition is that some debris in the housing might have caused the whole thing to bind, but i dont really know.
edit: oh, and you cant drill much beyond the platelets, because there seems to some hardened obstruction further in.
Last edited by romandian; May 19, 2021 at 12:16 AM.
CF Veteran




Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,467
Likes: 267
From: Littleton, CO
Year: '96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
Question and a comment:
1) If you have to replace the ignition switch, do you have to replace door locks, and vise versa? (if you change door lock, do you have to change ignition?) This is only if you want the same key for door and ignition...
2) I remember my Dads old C-10 Cheyenne ignition could be started without the key because it was so warn out haha. The key just had a few rounded spots on it.
1) If you have to replace the ignition switch, do you have to replace door locks, and vise versa? (if you change door lock, do you have to change ignition?) This is only if you want the same key for door and ignition...
2) I remember my Dads old C-10 Cheyenne ignition could be started without the key because it was so warn out haha. The key just had a few rounded spots on it.
You could buy the ignition switch that you can key. At least I can for my '00.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6...gnition+switch
I needed a new one cause I could pull the key out when the Jeep was running.
At first I liked that idea but then started thinking "what if it screws me down the road?".
So I replaced it. But with one that you don't key.
Be frank I kinda like having two keys.
Reminds me of way back when. LOL.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6...gnition+switch
I needed a new one cause I could pull the key out when the Jeep was running.
At first I liked that idea but then started thinking "what if it screws me down the road?".
So I replaced it. But with one that you don't key.
Be frank I kinda like having two keys.
Reminds me of way back when. LOL.
Senior Member


Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 558
Likes: 226
From: SE TX
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I used this one from Auto Zone because the shape of the key!
https://www.autozone.com/interior/ig...4750/77113_0_0
My door key is like Ralph's picture.
https://www.autozone.com/interior/ig...4750/77113_0_0
My door key is like Ralph's picture.
yes, pretty simple. i did that, inserted the cylinder and could not turnt the key. → drilling.
just for reference: there is 1) lock cylinder, 2) ignition switch, 3) "mechanism" in between, 4) receiver/transponder. do you call the cylinder "ignition switch"?
you get the cylinder at rockauto for $26.
just for reference: there is 1) lock cylinder, 2) ignition switch, 3) "mechanism" in between, 4) receiver/transponder. do you call the cylinder "ignition switch"?
you get the cylinder at rockauto for $26.
i received the dorman "wonder lock" (924-784). its a cylinder in a tube. you stick in the old key, turn it clockwise, extract and done. the platelets have been cut for the old transponder key. it works. jeep is running again ($37).
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