bradleyheathhays

96 XJ here and my front doors have been tough to lock for a while now. It began about 10 years ago when something in the locking action became stiff and it took 2 pushes on the electric lock switch to get it locked or unlocked. It got worse over the years where it eventually took up to 5-6 pushes at which point I just started locking the doors by pushing the big rocker switch.


Thinking the lock actuators were failing I changed those out last year and learned a lesson. Problem still there.


So at this point I"m guessing it's the latches. I ruled them out before because I've sprayed tons of lube up into them and it didn't seem to help at all. Locking them using the rocker switch now takes a fairly good push with a stiff thumb. Locking and unlocking with a key is hard as well. If not the latch what else could it be?

dave1123

Unfortunately the latches are the problem. The small actuating levers are plain steel riding on steel rivets. Rust builds up in the holes the rivets pass thru and bind the movement of the levers. On my WJ, the latch bodies are molded of nylon composite, but the levers are still the same, steel on steel. You can save them by taking them out of the doors and soaking them in penetrating oil, then working them back and forth until the rust turns to mud and comes out. Blow them off with air, them lubricate them with a penetrating grease, one that sprays in as an oil and then sets up as a grease.

On the WJ, the latches are a single unit with the lock actuators and switches as one piece. New ones cost $155 each at Mopar. I got serviceable ones at a junkyard for $5 each and worked on them until they were good enough to satisfy me. On the rear doors, I never got the "child safe" functions to work.

bradleyheathhays

Thanks for the help dave. Any advice for a spray lube product like the kind you mentioned?

dave1123

Okay, I've been looking for a long time for this type of lubricant and never found it. I used to use Triumph Chain Lube on my motorcycle chain, but that stuff is black and messy. I finally found what I was looking for from my mechanic friend and bought a can from him. It's Kimball Midwest Inter-Lube Delayed Viscosity Penetrating Grease #80-925. It's clear and nice to work with. He gets it from an auto shop supplier. Try kimballmidwest.com

PatHenry

Hahaha - A buddy of mine used to do sales for Kimball many years ago - at the time he set up a fake shop account so I could order stuff through him. Their products were really good - I still have a can of the penetrating spray that I recently found while cleaning out the basement.

Kewrock

To anyone reading this thread in the future...

The 1997+ XJ are different. The actuator and latch are one integrated unit.
I did this job yesterday. New, the assembly is $80-130+, None used on Ebay at the moment.
Mine had a cracked housing around the motor and a stripped gear. The previous owner tried to fix it.
Being cheap. I chopped out the little motor, electrical fitting and all the unneeded plastic, and put in a $5 universal actuator.
It's Chinese plastic junk. When it fails, I'll get a higher quality one made of metal. The aftermarket Chevy ones are nearly identical, but metal. and still far less than the Jeep part.
Jeep was even kind enough to provide an extra lever and hole in the assembly to attach the rod to your aftermarket actuator...nice. Thanks Jeep!
But for now it works great.