jaredsmith.tx

Browsing around and found a link that shows how to cheaply repair "sticky" door locks that take several times to fully lock if that.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/do...verhaul-59201/

Wondering if anyone else has done this, any other information, what actuators did you use?

Planning on attempting this repair soon, just looking for any info to boost my confidence. Haha.

Thanks guys

pitbulld45

Most of the sticky locks are do to gunk in the mechanism. If you take carb cleaner spray the mechanism by popping the plastic plugs on the door jam (atleast older xj's) let it dry then spray lubricant back on it. I have found this helps also. Mine was so bad I had to take mine completly out and let it soak in a parts cleaner.

closer9

I'll be doing this tomorrow. Got a set of 4 actuators from ebay for like $25 shipped. I broke down the old actuators as much as possible, cleaned as much as possible, lubed, reassembled, and they're still hit or miss. I don't drive the Jeep that much, but we took it out of town to visit my Dad two weeks ago. With all our junk in there I was constantly checking and locking and reaching and unlocking... I came home looked up the thread, and ordered a set off ebay. They FINALLY came in Wednesday. I'll be using some leftover weatherpac connectors from a friend's recent F100 project. Then I'll move on to the valve cover gasket, and passenger side mirror, then trans leak and shift kit in my '67 Plymouth, then finish up the halogen conversion on the '67, then put the bumper back on my Ram, and maybe build a box for the truck too. Glad the wife and kiddo are out of town this weekend.

EDIT: Just finished, and drove the Jeep out of the garage. Valve cover gasket and door locks were both very easy, especially since the door locks are all written up for you. Just follow the directions in the link, and it's a piece of cake. Door locks have never worked so good on this Jeep.

jaredsmith.tx

Well I used the link I posted in the original post for an idea. But once I got everything taken down i realized my new actuators off ebay (about 8 dollars a pair shipped) would fit in the stock location. So I broke off the rivets and the new ones screwed right in the old spot. I still had to use the extra rod supplied with the new actuators to connect to the old rod because the length of the old rod and new actuators wasnt the same.

All in all I've gotten the back two doors finished, which were the worst ones. They work great, cant beat this mod for 8 bucks.

Now onto the front doors.

SqueakyT1O

I'm a locksmith, I don't mess with the actuators, but the sticky locks are typically from dried out lube from factory....usually white lithium grease... best thing to free it up that I have found is pb blaster to clean it....just stick the straw in the lock, spray, run the key in and out several times, then use rem-oil...if that dosent help, take your keys to a locksmith and see if the key is worn....90% of the time its a bad key... stay away from hardware stores and big box stores....pay the money and have a pro cut it.... you will save a lot of headache

jaredsmith.tx

SqueakyT1O

My key will only work in the driver side door. The passenger and hatch locks won't turn at all. I have tried pb, other forms of spray lubricant, and graphite powder and nothing has helped. Any ideas how to fix this? Or would I just have to replace the locks themselves? And if so would a locksmith be able to set the locks so I can use the same key for ignition and doors? And if so what would a ballpark price be on this.

Wow sorry for the barrage of questions, but thanks in advance for any help that you can give me.

SqueakyT1O

I would stay away from graphite....it causes more trouble than good....first...did your keys ever work the other locks? Second a locksmith can rekey the door cylinders if needed, best option is to buy un-coded cylinders and have them keyed to your key. If they originally worked with your existing key your key may be worn. If that's the case a locksmith will charge between 20-50ish depending on where ya live to decode your original and make you a factory spec key. A locksmith is your best option they do it everyday, dealers....atleast in my area can't cut keys properly...if you have to replace the cylinders, dealer price is about 30 bucks a lock, and 30-60 for a lock shop to put it together....I would reccomend finding your local lock shop and have them take a look at the key first....that's the cheapest and easiest route. Locks and keys wear funny... usually the driver door and ignition wear more than the other locks causing the other locks to be "newer" and less worn causing issues