I just changed the plugs yesterday and I think they were the factory originals, I replaced them with o/e champions. They had very bad carbon buildup and a huge gap. After I noticed no signifigant difference between before and after. I attached three pictures. Two of the xj at idle and oil pressure reading at idle and the third is the old plugs. Should I do a seafoam ritual on the XJ because I'm betting there is a lot more carbon buildup in the engine? I couldn't upload the files but here is a photobucket link: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/IMAG0019.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/IMAG0020.jpg

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...3/IMAG0022.jpg

I appreciate everyone's input. I used to drive a Jeep Patriot and was a member of jeeppatriot.com forum and the cherokee forum is much better!

 

I'll leave the idle question for someone else.. but if your in park or neutral and your oil pressure is at that point.. then your fine not much to worry about.... and x2 on the over gapped spark plug... dumb question but have to ask.... did you regap the new spark plugs after you bought them... and before you installed them?

 

tach,Oil pressure,coolant temp all look good....you can try seafoam in the fuel...however keep it out of the oil.

 

Yes I made sure to gap them to .035

 

My experience is that oil press is around 20 to 30 at start up 30 to 40 at idle after warmed and 40 to 60 cruising.

As for the plugs they look fairly normal for a really old plug. I think the oem's come gapped at .035.

Seafoam is good stuff smoothed out my idle, try it.

 

What method did you use for seafoam?

 

Pull the brake booster hose and suck it up thru there...also put it in your gas tank. I don't like to use it my oil. It could break up some of the gunk in your crank case and start blocking things up.

 

u run seafoam in ur break booster?

 

you pull the hose of the booster, stick it in the seafoam can, and start the engine.

it sucks the seafoam up like a straw and it gets run through the intake tract and combustion chambers. you can do it in any vacuum line, but the BB seems most common

 

you are NOT! supose to stick it in the can and let the BB vacuum hose suck it all up in one shot. This will cause the motor to stall and could even Hydro-lock it...it is supose to be slowly introduced into the system this way it is more evenly spread and has longer to work....some people make a fancy drip canister to mix it in...however you could use a small funnel to stick into the 3/8 vacuum hose and simply put a few drops in at a time over the course of 10-15 mins...

 

....just keep the hose at the end of the opening on the seafoam can, and have a friend keep it from stalling, ie reving it, for about 15-20 seconds, then turn it off, let sit for 5 minutes start it up again, reving it and watching which way the winds blowing the cloud of smoke....com'on, i have done tons of them, simple simple simple.

My oil pressure is 50 at start-up, and 60 at 55 MPH cruise. I run Rotella diesel oil so that makes a difference.

Never use engine flush or anything, like that, if you want to clean the inside of your engine take the pan off and take a few hours with a tooth brush and some brake-cleen. You do less harm than "flushing it" because you aren't letting grit thats cought in the sludge (BTW ALL ENGINES HAVE SLUDGE) get back into the oiling system.

 

lol i think that if my motor needs seafoam i would most likely just rebuild it lol

 

Your idle and oil pressure look good. Your oil pressure is actually very good for at idle and up to temp.

 

my oil pressure is like 20-30 when warmed up and when driving it goes up to 40-50 is that right or do i need to start checking stuff out?

 

20 to 30 psi at warm idle and 40 to 50 psi at speed is really good. Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that the FSMs state that at least 13 psi at warm idle is acceptable.