Do I need a YSE or a TCD?

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Mar 23, 2010 | 06:00 PM

#46

96Cherokee113

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Joined: Nov 2009

Posts: 1,261

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From: New Jersey

Year: 1996

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 HO

Quote:

Originally Posted by kriebz

Oh, yeah, a hack'n'tap will probably work great, and I realize you're right about the shaft length. I was less intimidated by ripping apart the t-case than drilling a straight hole in hardened steel, plus the added strength the "full" kit got me, but really, I doubt I need it. The hack'n'tap plus a JY pulled shaft would be the cheapest way to go CV rear, for sure.

BigJeepBigSnow: good luck with whatever you do. You're in almost the same position I am: newer XJ, 2" BB, fun in the snow and dirt roads. I was also eying 31s and OME leafs, but I think after spending on the SYE, I'll go cheap with bastard packs instead. If only it cheaper to do the front end right.

To deal with the problem of drilling the hole straight, I saw a neat idea on another forum. After initially starting a hole, they started their Jeep and put it in reverse and let it move at idle speed while they drilled the hole. This way the hole was drilled straight because the shaft was spinning and acting as a guide for the drill bit. If the shaft is rotating, you can't drill a crooked hole. It was pretty much like a lathe.

Mar 23, 2010 | 06:03 PM

#47

DagBMX

Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2010

Posts: 686

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From: Lake Orion, MI

Year: 2008

Model: Grand Cherokee

Engine: 3.0L CRD

^lol, never thought of that... some good old shade tree ingenuity there!

Mar 23, 2010 | 06:07 PM

#48

96Cherokee113

CF Veteran

Joined: Nov 2009

Posts: 1,261

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From: New Jersey

Year: 1996

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 HO

Quote:

Originally Posted by DagBMX

^lol, never thought of that... some good old shade tree ingenuity there!

It seems like it would work pretty good. If I ever do a hack n tap, I'm gonna try it and see what happens.

Mar 23, 2010 | 06:12 PM

#49

DagBMX

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Joined: Jan 2010

Posts: 686

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From: Lake Orion, MI

Year: 2008

Model: Grand Cherokee

Engine: 3.0L CRD

just don't get the drill bit snagged or twist it

that'd be bad news bears all day

Mar 23, 2010 | 06:15 PM

#50

BigJeepBigSnow

Thread Starter

Junior Member

Joined: Feb 2010

Posts: 39

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From: Hanover, MD

Year: 2000

Model: Cherokee

here's the finished product if anyone is interested

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f8/new...til-now-36422/

Mar 23, 2010 | 06:15 PM

#51

96Cherokee113

CF Veteran

Joined: Nov 2009

Posts: 1,261

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From: New Jersey

Year: 1996

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 HO

Quote:

Originally Posted by DagBMX

just don't get the drill bit snagged or twist it

that'd be bad news bears all day

Yea, that wouldn't be fun trying to drill out the drill bit, haha. I guess the key is go slow and use lube.

Mar 23, 2010 | 06:17 PM

#52

Mike H.

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Joined: Sep 2008

Posts: 680

Likes: 2

From: Phoenix AZ

Year: 1997

Model: Cherokee

Engine: I6ho

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigJeepBigSnow

I've never heard of a short shaft conversion kit. Do you have any links that I can browse? I'm still learning this stuff.

Rubicon Express has a $99 hack and tap kit includes drill bit and tap. You provide a driveshaft.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/JeepPa...YE&part=RE1807
Short shaft kit replaces the output shaft and rear t-case housing deal with shorter units (output shaft includes a yoke.)
http://www.jbconversions.com/index2.php?pc=1

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigJeepBigSnow

And how could you tell the SYE wore out? What were the symptoms?

The hack and tap flange that mounts over the output shaft relies on a single bolt to keep the flange snug. Over time the bolt will work loose, and allow the flange to wobble on the output shaft. Over time this will wear the output shaft to the point where no matter how tight you get the bolt, the flange will wobble.
Wobble'n flange makes for drivline vibrations.
My h'n't unit lasted around 8 years, and around 80k miles.

Last edited by Mike H.; Mar 23, 2010 at 06:21 PM.

Mar 23, 2010 | 06:25 PM

#53

DagBMX

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Joined: Jan 2010

Posts: 686

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From: Lake Orion, MI

Year: 2008

Model: Grand Cherokee

Engine: 3.0L CRD

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96Cherokee113

I guess the key is go slow and use lube.

that's what she said

Mar 23, 2010 | 06:28 PM

#54

96Cherokee113

CF Veteran

Joined: Nov 2009

Posts: 1,261

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From: New Jersey

Year: 1996

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 HO

Quote:

Originally Posted by DagBMX

that's what she said

Haha, only need to go slow and use lube the first time. After you do it once, the next time should be a breeze.

I'm talking about the Hack n Tap...keep your mind outta the gutter

Mar 23, 2010 | 06:31 PM

#55

DagBMX

Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2010

Posts: 686

Likes: 0

From: Lake Orion, MI

Year: 2008

Model: Grand Cherokee

Engine: 3.0L CRD

lol, i know, you just provided too good of an opportunity there

but yeah, back onto topic...

with the RE link Mike H. provided, you could go to a JY and get a drive shaft and only put maybe $150 into the whole endeavor.