Do I need a YSE or a TCD?
03-22-2010, 09:37 PM
#16
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
No need to get smart. All I was saying was that it's really only a bandaid. For people that actually have vehicles in good condition, it might be worth an SYE. I beat the crap out of mine and don't really care about the strains I put it through. But some people like to fix it right the first time, which is why I mentioned that a SYE is a better fix, but NOT necessary for a 2" lift. If he goes higher in the future, it's something to think about.
03-22-2010, 10:10 PM
#17
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it's a waste to drop the t-case 1 inch when you just boosted the suspension 2 inches, so in reality, you would only gain 1 inch.
i'd just replace your rear driveshaft u-joints. that should take care of the vibes. you don't need a t-case drop for a 2 inch lift.
1310 driveshaft u-joints are only about 10 bux a piece, and about an hour to replace.
i'd just replace your rear driveshaft u-joints. that should take care of the vibes. you don't need a t-case drop for a 2 inch lift.
1310 driveshaft u-joints are only about 10 bux a piece, and about an hour to replace.
03-22-2010, 10:16 PM
#19
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Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0 litre
Lift
It's also how much you can spend on it at the time. I would do the SYE and t-case drop that's what I did cost like right at $600 then I put a big lift on it and got to redo it all again 
I actually just got done putting 2" more on my XJ on top of my 6.5" 
I actually just got done putting 2" more on my XJ on top of my 6.5"
03-22-2010, 10:18 PM
#20
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Year: 1996
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03-22-2010, 11:07 PM
#25
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be careful with a long slip yoke.
if the rear compresses enough, you can send that long travel slip yoke right through the back side of your t-case, splitting it in two.
if the rear compresses enough, you can send that long travel slip yoke right through the back side of your t-case, splitting it in two.
03-22-2010, 11:23 PM
#28
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A typical transfer case drop is one inch. Just get one that is one inch and you'll be fine. Also, the U-joint is what connects the driveshaft to the transfer case on one end and the driveshaft to the differential on the other end. Here's a video to help you better understand http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1d6v7zmM_WQ . I'd recommend getting a repair manual if you're not quite sure. It will help with many repairs down the road.
03-22-2010, 11:40 PM
#29
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Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Big Jeep Big Snow, The guys are right about a the fact that a 2" lift should not cause vibes in the rear driveshaft. However, your XJ being a 2000 has the low pinion front D30 housing. Most of us guys on here have 1999 and older XJs with the HP front D30 which can go upwards of 6-7" or more without vibes. The vibes you're experiencing might very well be coming from your front Driveshaft, which will vibe with much less lift than your rear due to the low pinion on your front axle housing.
03-23-2010, 12:23 AM
#30
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Big Jeep Big Snow, The guys are right about a the fact that a 2" lift should not cause vibes in the rear driveshaft. However, your XJ being a 2000 has the low pinion front D30 housing. Most of us guys on here have 1999 and older XJs with the HP front D30 which can go upwards of 6-7" or more without vibes. The vibes you're experiencing might very well be coming from your front Driveshaft, which will vibe with much less lift than your rear due to the low pinion on your front axle housing.