Do I have to remove steering box to tighten it?
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Year: 98'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Do I have to remove steering box to tighten it?
I'm trying to tighten my steering box on my 98' Cherokee because there is some play in the steering wheel. However, I cant get a Allen wrench on top of the steering box to do the job (there is physically not enough space between the steering box and the radiator). So my question is, do I have to remove the steering box to tighten it? If so, how to I remove it?
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Year: 98'
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There is very little play, however it is noticeable. I'm just a perfectionist so I want it as close to gone (if not gone) as I can get it. But hypothetically, lets say its not the steering box. What else could it be?
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Yes it does need to be removed and placed on a bench, but if you don't know exactly what your doing (I do not) they are very easy too screw up badly. There was a post on this very recently here.
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^ x2
Also check the steering shaft, from steering box to firewall. Watch the joints and connection at firewall while someone moves the steering wheel.
Also check the steering shaft, from steering box to firewall. Watch the joints and connection at firewall while someone moves the steering wheel.
Last edited by SteveMongr; 08-24-2014 at 06:52 AM.
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But, to answer your question regarding what else can cause this: about every component in the steering section. Like stated, good thing to have an ol' fashioned look at what's moving down there and things will become clear.
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Year: 99 94
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I'm trying to tighten my steering box on my 98' Cherokee because there is some play in the steering wheel. However, I cant get a Allen wrench on top of the steering box to do the job (there is physically not enough space between the steering box and the radiator). So my question is, do I have to remove the steering box to tighten it? If so, how to I remove it?
Steering play can come from a loose track bar at the passenger side mount.
Last edited by MonacaYankee; 08-24-2014 at 09:51 AM.
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As the wiser ones in this thread have stated, it's not a good idea to mess with adjustments in the steering box if you are not schooled on what you're doing. It's not lash or freeplay that you are messing with....it is preload. Check your TREs, and other ball/socket joints (trackbar) and trackbar bushing at the axle. Also check for loose mounting bolts at the steering box and the trackbar bracket. Check for play with the aid of a helper. All your helper need do is to move the steering wheel back and forth an inch or so. Don't just check visually. Check by FEEL. You can feel a little play a lot better than you can see it.
Last edited by Bobolink; 08-24-2014 at 09:14 PM.
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#13
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You know I sort of took it as a hint that I shouldn't be messing with it when I couldn't adjust the steering box immediately. Glad I listen to the ol gut and asked you guys.
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Just FYI:
The right way to adjust the box is on the bench with an inch/lb torque wrench. You adjust the preload so the drag increases about 5 in/lb as you rotate the input shaft though the center position. Those Saginaw boxes are designed to tighten the gear mesh on-center to improve "road feel". You can get into trouble quickly overtightening that preload, it'll bind on center and destroy itself.
There is a second adjustment at the steering shaft input, behind the large spanner nut. That one is adjusted until there is no in/out play in the steering shaft.
Both adjustments may need to be performed at some point in the box's life to compensate for wear. That's why they exist. One hand rotating the input with the other on the pittman will tell you if there is motion lost in the box. There shouldn't be.
Watch rebuilt boxes very carefully to make sure the adjuster screw isn't screwed down into the box. That's a sure sign of a rebuild with trashed internal gears.
The right way to adjust the box is on the bench with an inch/lb torque wrench. You adjust the preload so the drag increases about 5 in/lb as you rotate the input shaft though the center position. Those Saginaw boxes are designed to tighten the gear mesh on-center to improve "road feel". You can get into trouble quickly overtightening that preload, it'll bind on center and destroy itself.
There is a second adjustment at the steering shaft input, behind the large spanner nut. That one is adjusted until there is no in/out play in the steering shaft.
Both adjustments may need to be performed at some point in the box's life to compensate for wear. That's why they exist. One hand rotating the input with the other on the pittman will tell you if there is motion lost in the box. There shouldn't be.
Watch rebuilt boxes very carefully to make sure the adjuster screw isn't screwed down into the box. That's a sure sign of a rebuild with trashed internal gears.
Last edited by Radi; 09-09-2014 at 12:14 AM.
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