I recently replaced the Drums, Shoes, Wheel Cylinders, Hardware, Rotors, Pads, Calipers and bled the whole system afterwards. When the car is off, the pedal is firm after pumping the brakes then after turning on the car it goes down slightly. When driving it just seems like I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to get the brakes to respond. Does this sound like I need to bleed the brakes more or an issue with the master cylinder or booster? I didn't notice any fluid leaks and I made sure the caliper are on correctly with the bleeder screw at the top. The only other visual issue I noticed is that the booster is rusted but that is probably only cosmetic.

 

Sounds like there is most likely still air in the system which isn't surprising for the amount of work you did on it. When I do that much brake work, I always do a reverse bleed on my brakes just to 1) do a flush and 2) make sure I get all the air out. I know reverse bleeding is not for everyone, but I swear by it when replacing calipers, cylinders and lines.

 

Go through and bleed the system again starting farthest from the master cylinder. Also make sure your rear brakes are properly adjusted or you'll notice a lot of pedal travel.

 

I'm using the cheap one man bleeder setup with just a bottle and some clear tubing. Is it worth getting one of those pneumatic bleeders from harbor freight?

 

Get a buddy and bleed it the old school way.

 

I bled it the old school way and i'm still experiencing the problem. Brake pedal is firm when the car off, depresses slightly when turning on the engine but while driving it seems like you have to slam it to the floor to get it to respond. Does this sound like the master cylinder? I double checked the shoes and are adjusted a few clicks from binding with the drum.

 

That was my first thought, assuming the OP doesn't have air still in the lines. Give the adjuster a turn or two to open it up if you haven't already.

 

Not to suggest stupidity but was it level when bleeding? I had a brain fart one time and I was trying to bleed brakes with the vehicle on an incline. Finally realized I was bleeding the downhill side when I couldn't get any air out. Lol. Also how are your rubber lines? Maybe they're expanding a lot.

 

If you are sure you did everything properly, give it a week or two. Just did 3 full brake jobs myself, and noticed that they seem spongy when new. The linings need to bed into the drums/rotors. All 3 are now rock solid.
Push to the floor sounds a bit soft, though. Back brakes being adjusted right can have everything to do with pedal height. Make sure the parking brake isnt holding the shoes off. Usually it's the other way around, the p brake makes the brakes too tight. If they were OK before you did the job I doubt the master is involved. Maybe take the drums off, recheck everything, all the hold downs, adjuster cable routing, adjusters in the right way, adjusters free, , p brake not stuck, and then adjust them up for light drag when the drum goes on. Best to take them too tight then back off to make sure you are aligning the shoes right.
Of course you should check the front s pindles too that they don't have the groove worn in where the ears for the pads ride; that could
hold the pads off the rotor.
Pedal being firm with car off means nothing.