WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

This is dedicated to Firestorm and Orlo :-)

For those of you that participated in the heater control valve (HCV) thread, why was it closed? Just so you can see, I took you guys' advice, and bit the bullet...no more heater control valves--I'm hangin wit da big boys :-)

1994 XJ
Detached vacuum line
Detached HCV from the four hoses
Connected heater hose (connected to Tstat) to bottom outlet hose (with a connector) tightened existing clamps
Connected the other hose (connected to water pump) to the top inlet hose tightened existing clamps
Capped the vacuum line (vacuum line caps $1.99, 5-pack)

djb383

Congratulations........good job.

That second pic seems to show more proof that the Factory reversed the coolant flow thru the heater core beginning in '97.

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

Thanks!

7ate9

Did I do something wrong here?? 1990 xj 4.0

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

Is that your windshield wiper reservoir? Was that hose originally connected to the heater control valve? The '90 looks a little different from my '94.

cruiser54

No. His is an earlier model and that's his expansion tank.

Thanks for the write-up!!

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

Oh, in that case it looks fine to me. You're welcome!

extrashaky

Good job!

The other thread probably got closed because there were some personal remarks in there. There wasn't anything too bad, but the mods here are pretty good about stepping in and keeping us in line when any of us start in a direction we shouldn't go. They do a great job of keeping this place much more civil than many other boards like it, so I don't complain.

It's not, but that could get pretty exciting if it were.

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

Thanks for explaining that to me, I was racking my brain trying to figure out why it was locked. That's the 2nd time that happened to me.

extrashaky

It's not your fault.

Occasionally there will be a thread here where the OP posts a question and then seems incapable of accepting the answer that's given. The knowledgeable posters here will tell the OP exactly what to test or what to replace, and then a week or two will go by with the OP trying everything EXCEPT what has been suggested. That gets a lot of people frustrated. We've had a few posters who have started with a relatively simple problem and compounded it into something epic.

As a result, we also occasionally have a thread where someone will post a question and get an answer but then won't have the time or money to run right out that day to do the work. So while they're waiting for payday or their next day off, the other people here get impatient and start to think that the OP was wasting their time. That's what happened in your cooling overhaul thread. It had a lot of the red flags of the time wasting drama queens, but in the end you proved everyone wrong.

You seem to be the kind of person who likes to gather all the information and look at the problem from several angles before tackling it. There's nothing at all wrong with that. But because your threads tend to go a little longer than usual before the problem is fixed, some folks here are going to get impatient and say things they shouldn't. That's what gets a thread locked.

So keep asking those questions and doing what you're doing. I for one enjoy seeing you succeed.

Firestorm500

WNJE, the thread got locked before I could comment on your choice of hose adapters.

You traded plastic (heater control valve) for more plastic parts. I'm not sure that is a wise solution to your problem.

Also, another person commented that eliminating the control valve would let hot water flow through the core at all times, thereby hurting the A/C cooling in the summertime. Well yes it does, but that might help keep the core flushed and flowing freely at all times. Cooling system gunk tends to start there first.

In addition, by conduction (heat transfer) the other hose that is open to the engine will eventually heat up and so will the core. It will eventually be coolant temperature as the rest of the system already had obtained.

Therefore, the core will be hot whether or not a heater control valve is present. Air conditioning efficiency, or the lack thereof, will not be changed by the elimination of the valve. Putting a manual shutoff valve in the hose won't help either.

I had already thought of all this before I took the valve (after it burst again) out of the '87.

If somebody still doubts both hoses get hot with the valve closed, turn your A/C on sometime and drive around. Open the hood and grab ahold of both hoses and tell me they aren't hot. If they are hot, the heater core is too. Simple thermodynamic principle.

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

Yes you are correct, I am very analytical, and my time is limited. Thanks for your kind words. In my opinion it's all teamwork, couldn't do it without you guys :-).

WomanNeedsJeepExpertise

Thanks Firestorm, this is what I was trying to figure out. I know the connectors are more efficient (they didn't have the appropriate sized metal ones but I think this is sturdy-for now), but I didn't want it to affect the a/c in the hotter months. I was thinking the a/c compressor would need to working harder to keep it cool. Ya wit me?

Firestorm500

Yeah, I live in Arkansas where it is plenty hot & humid for a long time, like NC.

I noticed no difference in efficiency before & after the modification.

It did seem that I got more heat quicker, though. Gets cold here, too. It is snowing to beat the band right now.

cruiser54

How would you know? LOL!!!