1999 XJ
4.0L, with auto trans

This is the second time this has happened and just can't figure out what is going on.
I had the alignment done
It has a Red Head steering box (installed about 3 yrs ago still feels pretty good)
Always felt like it pulled a little to the right even on roads without a steep crown.
Well this is the second tie-rod end at the pitman arm that is now ruptured. I just don't get what the root issue is.
All the following parts have less than 10k on them.
all inner and outer tie-rod ends
trac bar
steering gearbox from crappy remain changed to a Red Head (seems solid still) no leaks, etc. Fluid still looks good
Sooo pissed I didn't have the original one rebuilt.... one of those if I knew then what I know now kinda deals... but the red head seems to be holding up.

So with all that done and alignment checked and rechecked... I have to ask WTF is going on? I just put on a new pair of shoes and done want to ruin those.
Want this fixed once and for all.
Any thoughts, suggestions?

also checked with a mate and no slop in the steering column either

What brand tie rod end did you get?

What tie rod end did you use and do you have a lift on it ?

Is it a Moog? By rupture you mean the rubber boot? I have had issues with Moogs boots cracking on my truck with less than 10k. First two time replaced under warranty third time just went with a different brand.

I believe they are Moog... and yes referring to the rubber boot. But I've had issues with this for a while, so don't know if it's tie-rood end pooping the bed or if it's taking extra stress from a root issue and that's the result of it.

Can I see some pics of what happened?

Check the castor angle right and left Most D30s are assembled with a 1.5° difference. This will make it pull slightly to the right even with a fresh toe in.

Nothing really to see... just at the pitman arm the rubber boot is cracked open again.
Can't go back to the past...but if I could... I'd kick myself square in the nuts for not being without my jeep long enough to have the original steering gearbox completely rebuilt. So pissed at myself for not knowing to do that.

at least the red head feels smooth. not binding but not overly loose and no leaking either...and it's been on the jeep for going on about 2.5 years now. not a lot of miles on it, but enough that if were going to leak.. I think it would've started by now..

If it is just the rubber boot, you can buy those and just replace it. I have done that several times. As long as the joint is tight, a couple of bucks fixes it

that would be good... my question though is I don't want it to be a band-aide... I want to find and fix the root of what is causing that to happen in the first place.

If you have a lift, the angle that tie rod end gets towards its limit and the rubber will eventually be a little worse for the wear. If they don't have much angle to them those boots last a long time

I believe its partly because modern rubber boots on aftermarket parts the rubber is low quality

One should approach a CV expert, as they can supply higher quality boots

I have had failure on vehicles with very few miles, but a time related issue, the rubber seems to get crumbly, very old style rubber used to get sticky, not crumbly

Country of origin regarding the replacement parts is the most likely issue. https://www.4wd.com/v/jeep-cherokee-.../N-1sdfrZclytv

If it is just the boot then you can use something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/28446319430...Bk9SR76j-5KCYQ

THIS ABOVE

my jeep was lifted by prior owner, the pitman arm he used had too much drop. this caused the ball end to be at an angle such that it rubbed the boot on the arm. went thru three boots fairly quick, then I got a pitman with less drop, correct for my lift, and no more tears. Now the boot is no longer squished crookedly on against the arm, so no more wear!


A photo of your tie rod and pitman with vehicle on ground, wheels straight ahead my help us help you determine if this is issue or not for you.


Ideally the ball socked tapered shaft should be centered straight up from the tierod end when vehicle is on ground with wheels straight ahead . doing so will minimize the arm rubbing on the boot as the axle moves relative the the arm (i.e. suspension up and down travel ) and then turning.
if the ball tapered shaft (when at rest, straight ahead) is at a extreme angle, then the boot may rub on the arm as suspension and steering moves

You need the correct drop arm. When lifted, stock may not be correct, or in my case, the aftermarket arm had much to much drop.

photo please.