cylinder heads ????
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Newbie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 16
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From: Mars
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC 4.0L
Hi guys
first: i am new here and i don't speak english very well, so if i did not understand you >>>>>>>
..............
socond: i have a jeep cherokee 2001 4.0L. i put on it some stuff like:
-K&N
-headers (long)
-Magnaflow Exhaust (and the back cat)
-i changed the ring and pinion from 3.55 to 4.56
-electric fan
-Lunati cam .Lift = 527 - 547 .Duration = 226 - 234
I want to put an aluminum -high pressure- cylinder head on my jeep, so which are the companies that give this thing and which is the best one?
first: i am new here and i don't speak english very well, so if i did not understand you >>>>>>>
..............
socond: i have a jeep cherokee 2001 4.0L. i put on it some stuff like:
-K&N
-headers (long)
-Magnaflow Exhaust (and the back cat)
-i changed the ring and pinion from 3.55 to 4.56
-electric fan
-Lunati cam .Lift = 527 - 547 .Duration = 226 - 234
I want to put an aluminum -high pressure- cylinder head on my jeep, so which are the companies that give this thing and which is the best one?
Last edited by Almanei; May 29, 2009 at 10:07 PM.
There is, as far as I know, only one aluminum head being made for the AMC six engine. I don't know who actually casts the thing (I'd like to - I'd like to think I had some small part in making it happen...) but it's sold by Hurley Engine Service Company (HESCO) and Patriot Performance.
It is not cheap. I'd suggest you make sure it's something you really want before you plonk down the cash for it, I think it's still up in the $1200-1500 range...
When you say "aluminum high-pressure cylinder head," I take it you're looking to increase your compression significantly? Or what do you have in mind? We may be able to find a way for you to attain your goals without having to spend so much money.
Tangent - from where do you hail, originally? I don't see any problems with your English, so you've learned it well (or take your time to correct it before you commit the post, which also speaks well for you.)
It is not cheap. I'd suggest you make sure it's something you really want before you plonk down the cash for it, I think it's still up in the $1200-1500 range...
When you say "aluminum high-pressure cylinder head," I take it you're looking to increase your compression significantly? Or what do you have in mind? We may be able to find a way for you to attain your goals without having to spend so much money.
Tangent - from where do you hail, originally? I don't see any problems with your English, so you've learned it well (or take your time to correct it before you commit the post, which also speaks well for you.)
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Mars
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC 4.0L
i am looking for more horse power on the street.
what do you think should i supposed to do rather than putting a cylinder head, i don't want to put a NOS because it doesn't give you the feeling of the engine (5 second and that is it).
by the way i am form saudi arabia where my jeep is, but right now i am in AZ - Tucson studying english.
what do you think should i supposed to do rather than putting a cylinder head, i don't want to put a NOS because it doesn't give you the feeling of the engine (5 second and that is it).
by the way i am form saudi arabia where my jeep is, but right now i am in AZ - Tucson studying english.
"CF Moderator"
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,045
Likes: 3
From: N.J. Shore Area
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
i am looking for more horse power on the street.
what do you think should i supposed to do rather than putting a cylinder head, i don't want to put a NOS because it doesn't give you the feeling of the engine (5 second and that is it).
by the way i am form saudi arabia where my jeep is, but right now i am in AZ - Tucson studying english.
what do you think should i supposed to do rather than putting a cylinder head, i don't want to put a NOS because it doesn't give you the feeling of the engine (5 second and that is it).
by the way i am form saudi arabia where my jeep is, but right now i am in AZ - Tucson studying english.

The best bang for you money (the most horsepower for what is worth) would be to "Stroke" the motor. Look up "Stroker jeep motor" on google and see what comes up...Tj
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
you my think about getting and older model head that will flow better
casting # 7120 91 to 95 Cherokee
do a port and polish on it and bigger valves
casting # 7120 91 to 95 Cherokee
do a port and polish on it and bigger valves
Last edited by mike37; May 31, 2009 at 03:10 PM.
I second that. I have been looking at increasing my horsepower and it is the best bang for the buck upgrade.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showth...jectors&page=2
check out this thread on injectors
member warrpath4x4
and member coas
gave some great info on better injectors for stock and modified 4.0
check out this thread on injectors
member warrpath4x4
and member coas
gave some great info on better injectors for stock and modified 4.0
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Mars
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC 4.0L
guys, i did not understand (Stroker jeep motor).............. 
do you mean developing the motor to a high level ..... ex: from 4.0L to 4.6L ?
if that is what you mean, it is very expensive and it is hard to put that parts all to gather in a perfact way.

do you mean developing the motor to a high level ..... ex: from 4.0L to 4.6L ?
if that is what you mean, it is very expensive and it is hard to put that parts all to gather in a perfact way.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A stroker has a crank with alonger stroke and shorter rods
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 5
From: Stafford,VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
with a 01 i wouldnt tear the motor out either...if you have the money but the head from hesco.....dought you will get a turbo kit for less and am positive you wount touch a supercharger for that..............on the other hand How do you like the lunati cam? it has a good amount of lift/duration...sounds like a higher RPM cam.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Mars
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC 4.0L
with a 01 i wouldnt tear the motor out either...if you have the money but the head from hesco.....dought you will get a turbo kit for less and am positive you wount touch a supercharger for that..............on the other hand How do you like the lunati cam? it has a good amount of lift/duration...sounds like a higher RPM cam.

= talking about the turbo, check this jeep (it is a nissan jeep)

Lunati: it is fantastic, but i have faced two prablems:
1- when you begin driving the jeep in a low RPM, you will not have any kind of power. i solved this problem by using 4.56.

2- the car is not giving that much horsepower becaues i don't have enough compression in the cylinder head, so i need a new aluminum cylinder head with a high compression (high-pressure).
Last edited by Almanei; Jun 2, 2009 at 12:59 PM.
Compression isn't necessarily controlled by just the cylinder head, you know.
There are a few ways to increase compression:
1) Use a crankshaft with a longer stroke and/or bore the cylinder out (the stroke will give a greater change the the bore will, tho.)
2) Use a piston with less "dish" - or a "dome", if you have the space to run it.
3) The cylinder head with the smaller combustion chamber.
The first two are usually a bit better to muck around with, and the iron cylinder head will support up to 11.0:1-12.0:1 without too much trouble. Guys run strokers just short of 10.0:1 with the OEM iron head without any real difficulty - and you can probably push it just over 10.0:1 by using a flattop piston (no dish,) if you have the clearance between the valves and the piston head at TDC.
But, if you want to stick to natural aspiration (no turbocharger or supercharger,) your best bet is going to be to find a 258ci crankshaft and rods, and build yourself a stroker. It's going to be a lot less expensive than sourcing an aluminum cylinder head, still works fine with the iron cylinder head, and you can massage the iron head slightly (a bit of port polishing and chamber polishing to improve airflow and reduce retained heat) to improve things a bit more.
And, a stroker gives you plenty more torque on the low end - which is usually where you want it on a truck anyhow.
(Figuring out here, something like $1200-1600 for the aluminum replacement cylinder head, plus any machine work needed on the block. Then figure somewhere around $200-600, depending on source, for crankshaft and rods - plus machine work needed on the block. Ancillary parts like gaskets and such are going to be necessary either way, and the machine work on the block is the same either way - so those aren't really factors here. Building a stroker on the OEM block and head can save you upwards of a thousand dollars - just in parts!)
There are a few ways to increase compression:
1) Use a crankshaft with a longer stroke and/or bore the cylinder out (the stroke will give a greater change the the bore will, tho.)
2) Use a piston with less "dish" - or a "dome", if you have the space to run it.
3) The cylinder head with the smaller combustion chamber.
The first two are usually a bit better to muck around with, and the iron cylinder head will support up to 11.0:1-12.0:1 without too much trouble. Guys run strokers just short of 10.0:1 with the OEM iron head without any real difficulty - and you can probably push it just over 10.0:1 by using a flattop piston (no dish,) if you have the clearance between the valves and the piston head at TDC.
But, if you want to stick to natural aspiration (no turbocharger or supercharger,) your best bet is going to be to find a 258ci crankshaft and rods, and build yourself a stroker. It's going to be a lot less expensive than sourcing an aluminum cylinder head, still works fine with the iron cylinder head, and you can massage the iron head slightly (a bit of port polishing and chamber polishing to improve airflow and reduce retained heat) to improve things a bit more.
And, a stroker gives you plenty more torque on the low end - which is usually where you want it on a truck anyhow.
(Figuring out here, something like $1200-1600 for the aluminum replacement cylinder head, plus any machine work needed on the block. Then figure somewhere around $200-600, depending on source, for crankshaft and rods - plus machine work needed on the block. Ancillary parts like gaskets and such are going to be necessary either way, and the machine work on the block is the same either way - so those aren't really factors here. Building a stroker on the OEM block and head can save you upwards of a thousand dollars - just in parts!)
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