Cranks but no start. Fuel good, spark good,
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Cranks but no start. Fuel good, spark good,
I have a 94 Cherokee that I bought with a bad engine from an auction. It ended up having to be rebuilt so I rebuilt it. Now with it together again and pretty sure that all the sensors are hooked ul correctly it won’t start. Replaced coil, crank pos sens, plugs, distrib cap and distrib rotor.
It seems to backfire through the throttle body when cranking.
Have fuel pressure with and without vacuum hose
New injectors, tested pigtails with noid light and all but #6 is firing.
Frustrated and hoping for help thanks!
It seems to backfire through the throttle body when cranking.
Have fuel pressure with and without vacuum hose
New injectors, tested pigtails with noid light and all but #6 is firing.
Frustrated and hoping for help thanks!
#2
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,902
Received 1,528 Likes
on
1,240 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The distributor is likely installed incorrectly.
Some of the manuals have this wrong. This is the one to use.
Some of the manuals have this wrong. This is the one to use.
The following 2 users liked this post by cruiser54:
agreen (09-30-2021),
BlueRidgeMark (09-30-2021)
#3
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Posts: 7,964
Received 952 Likes
on
767 Posts
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Pay very close attention to the location of #1 on the distributor. That's where Chilton & Haynes are wrong, and it has tripped up many of us. I'd say there's about a 99% chance that's where your problem is.
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
#5
Senior Member
You can rotate the engine to TDC #1 cylinder (compression stroke, not exhaust) and make the rotor point to the #1 contact. There should be a 1 on the cap somewhere.
Trending Topics
#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
I’m we got is started but turned it off after a few second as we haven’t put the coolant in yet
still wondering how to fix the #6 injector firing
The following 3 users liked this post by OscarMcMahan:
#9
Senior Member
So the injectors have 12v constant to them when the key is in run or start. The ECU pulses ground to them. You either have a bad wire, connector, or a bad ECU. I have seen an injector transistor on the ECU give up before. I was able to repair it by soldering on a new one, but it takes some fancy soldering skills. You most likely just have a broken wire somewhere.
The following users liked this post:
BlueRidgeMark (10-01-2021)
#10
Newbie
Thread Starter
So the injectors have 12v constant to them when the key is in run or start. The ECU pulses ground to them. You either have a bad wire, connector, or a bad ECU. I have seen an injector transistor on the ECU give up before. I was able to repair it by soldering on a new one, but it takes some fancy soldering skills. You most likely just have a broken wire somewhere.
#11
Senior Member
Do a visual inspection of the wiring and use a multimeter to determine if you're getting +12v or not. If you're not getting +12v, trace it back to the splice. If you are, check continuity of the trigger wire going back to the ECU.
The following users liked this post:
doublechaz (10-01-2021)
#12
Newbie
Thread Starter
thank you for the help
#13
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,490
Received 410 Likes
on
334 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
A bit of work but you can also swap #6 to another position and see if the problem move with it. You can also apply 12v to the injector directly and hear if it clicks. I know you said you have new injectors but "stuff happens".
The following users liked this post:
BlueRidgeMark (10-01-2021)
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 3,909
Received 1,077 Likes
on
862 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
Yeah, check the wiring and swap injectors or injector connectors to see if the problem moves. If those "new" bosch injectors were under $80 for the set, they are most likely fake chinese knockoffs. Those are notorious for problems including poor patterns, mismatched flow rates, and dead out of the box.
The following 2 users liked this post by lawsoncl:
BlueRidgeMark (10-02-2021),
doublechaz (10-02-2021)
#15
Newbie
Thread Starter
So the injectors have 12v constant to them when the key is in run or start. The ECU pulses ground to them. You either have a bad wire, connector, or a bad ECU. I have seen an injector transistor on the ECU give up before. I was able to repair it by soldering on a new one, but it takes some fancy soldering skills. You most likely just have a broken wire somewhere.
the injector had 12 to it so pretty sure it’s fine