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Cranks, but No Spark and No Fuel Pressure
#31
Ok reading through this and a lot of good info.
My jeep is stuck in the middle of my driveway that had a slight uphill grade and I need to start it to move it. Is there any way I can jump some thing or hot wire it so I can move it just 15/20ft?
My jeep is stuck in the middle of my driveway that had a slight uphill grade and I need to start it to move it. Is there any way I can jump some thing or hot wire it so I can move it just 15/20ft?
#37
Here's an image of the FP connector pinout. It's the harness connector view, not the FP pigtail view.
Also, I've posted a modified diagram of the FP circuit that shows the relay socket wiring.
The FP power and quantity wiring goes through the firewall then through the inside of the Jeep, imerging out under the chasiss near the FP. The FP module ground is behind the spare tire mount in the cargo bay. None of the FP wiring will be in the loom for the O2S and TC switch wiring.
View this Connector Pinout. Is there a possibilty when you read 1.25 volts at the connector you were reading the fuel level sensor wiring?
Here's the FP circuit. You can check the FP relay control coil circuit using a voltmeter in the following manner: Remove the FP relay, Igintion switch OFF, Meter (+) probe to pin socket 86, (-) probe to ground. You should read .00 volts; (+) probe to pin socket 85, you should read .02-.03 volts.
Ignition switch to RUN, (+) probe to pin socket 86, you should read battery voltage (12V); (+) probe to pin socket 85, you should read .02-.03 volts.
The .02-.03 volts on pin socket 85 may be as high as 1.21 volts. This voltage shows the wiring to the PCM that provides a ground to the control coil is intact. This voltage is the PCM idle voltage. The PCM is waiting to be awakened by the start-run CPS activity.
The ASD relay circuit can be checked inthe same manner.
If there is no .02-.03 volts at pin socket 85 either for the ASD or the FP the PCM is dead (no power to it) or the wiring is open. Power to the PCM for this is from fuse 11 in the JB (start-run) for both the ASD and the FP.
Also, I've posted a modified diagram of the FP circuit that shows the relay socket wiring.
The FP power and quantity wiring goes through the firewall then through the inside of the Jeep, imerging out under the chasiss near the FP. The FP module ground is behind the spare tire mount in the cargo bay. None of the FP wiring will be in the loom for the O2S and TC switch wiring.
View this Connector Pinout. Is there a possibilty when you read 1.25 volts at the connector you were reading the fuel level sensor wiring?
Here's the FP circuit. You can check the FP relay control coil circuit using a voltmeter in the following manner: Remove the FP relay, Igintion switch OFF, Meter (+) probe to pin socket 86, (-) probe to ground. You should read .00 volts; (+) probe to pin socket 85, you should read .02-.03 volts.
Ignition switch to RUN, (+) probe to pin socket 86, you should read battery voltage (12V); (+) probe to pin socket 85, you should read .02-.03 volts.
The .02-.03 volts on pin socket 85 may be as high as 1.21 volts. This voltage shows the wiring to the PCM that provides a ground to the control coil is intact. This voltage is the PCM idle voltage. The PCM is waiting to be awakened by the start-run CPS activity.
The ASD relay circuit can be checked inthe same manner.
If there is no .02-.03 volts at pin socket 85 either for the ASD or the FP the PCM is dead (no power to it) or the wiring is open. Power to the PCM for this is from fuse 11 in the JB (start-run) for both the ASD and the FP.
#38
ZJ no spark, no fuel
All, I'm on the verge of a mental breakdown here. First some background: I purchased this 93 ZJ with a 4.0 and auto trans for $640. I was ecstatic. The fuel gauge didn't work, the low fuel light was on, and the speedometer didn't work, but everything ran fine. One day, it wouldn't start, I switched the out the fuel pump relay and all was good. I noticed on the highway the speedometer would work intermittently. Oil pressure, temp, and battery always worked.
Last friday, I take it for a spin after adjusting the steering gear box, park it, load it, then NOTHING. It now turns over all day, but no spark and no fuel. I replaced the crank position sensor (HELL), and that made no difference.
I followed some testing procedures for the CPS (voltage to the TPS with the CPS unplugged, and resistance across terminal 2 and 3 on the CPS) and confirmed it is ok.
I tried watching the gauges with the CPS unplugged, that made no difference.
I checked every fuse, in the cab and under hood, all is OK. F11 in the cab looks like there may have been an issue before (the socket looks like it may have gotten hot) but the fuse is alright, and a test light confirmed it worked.
I tried wiggling the shifter, it does not turn over in gear so I suppose a NSS is not the case.
I tried the gauge test where you hold the trip button and turn the key then release. Nothing happened. So is there something wrong with my BUS? I don't even know what that is.
There is a male two wire connector in front of my ECM that is unplugged, and nowhere for it to go. But I never disconnected it.
There's a male two wire connector that comes off the same harness going to the starter, also unplugged, that I never unplugged, where does this go? Can't find the female end of it.
I have not wasted time replacing the coil or any of that because I don't have fuel
What can this be? Is it the so called BUS? Does that hing just suddenly die like that?
Your help is greatly appreciated, and my girlfriend won't kill me if I can get this thing out from in front of the house.
Last friday, I take it for a spin after adjusting the steering gear box, park it, load it, then NOTHING. It now turns over all day, but no spark and no fuel. I replaced the crank position sensor (HELL), and that made no difference.
I followed some testing procedures for the CPS (voltage to the TPS with the CPS unplugged, and resistance across terminal 2 and 3 on the CPS) and confirmed it is ok.
I tried watching the gauges with the CPS unplugged, that made no difference.
I checked every fuse, in the cab and under hood, all is OK. F11 in the cab looks like there may have been an issue before (the socket looks like it may have gotten hot) but the fuse is alright, and a test light confirmed it worked.
I tried wiggling the shifter, it does not turn over in gear so I suppose a NSS is not the case.
I tried the gauge test where you hold the trip button and turn the key then release. Nothing happened. So is there something wrong with my BUS? I don't even know what that is.
There is a male two wire connector in front of my ECM that is unplugged, and nowhere for it to go. But I never disconnected it.
There's a male two wire connector that comes off the same harness going to the starter, also unplugged, that I never unplugged, where does this go? Can't find the female end of it.
I have not wasted time replacing the coil or any of that because I don't have fuel
What can this be? Is it the so called BUS? Does that hing just suddenly die like that?
Your help is greatly appreciated, and my girlfriend won't kill me if I can get this thing out from in front of the house.
#39
Crank no start, help!
So i just bought my first Jeep Cherokee. It's a 98' model so it has many of the last gen updates.
However, i bought this car semi broken - the prev owner got stuck in a pit and the car died immediately after he popped out of the rut. The downstream 02 sensor wiring is torn off. It was enough to yank the wires apart at the harness and yank out the 2 prong male connector that plugs into the top of the transmission. Any idea what this connector is for? It has 2 wires, one is black/red and the other is some other kinda black. It has a green weatherseal on the inside of it as well. Neutral safety switch??
More importantly, the engine isn't getting fuel or spark, the voltage and gas gauge is dead, but the engine is able to crank no problem. I don't hear the fuel pump kick on when putting the key in pos 2 and there's no pressure at the rail. I swapped fuel pump relays and it did nothing. Additionally, i put my multimeter on the crank sensor and it reads open between the far left and middle terminals, if the tab is on top, so i guess it is good.
Any ideas?? Maybe a bad ECU, or wiring that's shorting out, which is causing the ECU to not turn on? What else should i be looking for here? Anybody know what else is tied into the harness down where the downstream O2 sensor is?
Thanks!!
However, i bought this car semi broken - the prev owner got stuck in a pit and the car died immediately after he popped out of the rut. The downstream 02 sensor wiring is torn off. It was enough to yank the wires apart at the harness and yank out the 2 prong male connector that plugs into the top of the transmission. Any idea what this connector is for? It has 2 wires, one is black/red and the other is some other kinda black. It has a green weatherseal on the inside of it as well. Neutral safety switch??
More importantly, the engine isn't getting fuel or spark, the voltage and gas gauge is dead, but the engine is able to crank no problem. I don't hear the fuel pump kick on when putting the key in pos 2 and there's no pressure at the rail. I swapped fuel pump relays and it did nothing. Additionally, i put my multimeter on the crank sensor and it reads open between the far left and middle terminals, if the tab is on top, so i guess it is good.
Any ideas?? Maybe a bad ECU, or wiring that's shorting out, which is causing the ECU to not turn on? What else should i be looking for here? Anybody know what else is tied into the harness down where the downstream O2 sensor is?
Thanks!!
Hey I have a 1998 Cherokee with a 4.0. I bought it not running. Crank no start. I have replaced the crank sensor, cam sensor/ distributor pickup coil, cap and rotor, pcm and ignition coil. And still won't start. Test power and ground at the coil and it's there but I have no spark coming from the coil. I'm really scratching my head here.
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