So here's the story, I'm in my XJ following my cousin in his ZJ down a gravel road. When leaving a stop sign apparently he thought it would be funny to floor it and spray gravel all over the front of my XJ. Long story short I ended up with a few broken fins on my grille, and to top it all off I got a nice little crack in my windshield. It was out of my line of sight and was pretty minimal so I left it alone and drove it as is. With the crazy low temps we have had in the last few weeks, (about a year after I got the crack) the crack has started to get bigger while the windshield cools after being heated up by the defrosters every morning. It has gone from a little crack to a foot long crack across towards the passenger side, and is also beginning to creep upwards right in front of the drivers view. I'm planning on replacing it come spring, but I'm wondering if there is any way to stop or slow the crack for now before it becomes an issue. Also if anyone has a suggestion on where to get a windshield installed at a good value?

Thanks

 

Long time ago when me and my friends were younger and stupider my buddy stopped short with Too Tall Ted in the front seat.
This is long before seat belt laws.
Well the windshield got cracked with his head. My buddy took an engraver tool and put a divot in the glass at the end the crack.
The first one did not hold but he did it again and that one seemed to.
Now figure the impact was from the inside of the car. But I don't know if he used the tool on the inside or outside to make the divot.
It might not matter.

 

I'll look into this, my crack is on the outside panel of the glass only and can't be felt from the inside, so I'l start by trying it on the outside first. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Keep us posted.

 

Wear safety glasses when using an engraver on glass. Its better to be safe, than sorry. When it comes time to replace it, check the body around the wndshield for any signs of rust that could become a hole. If a shop is doing the work, i hope they do the same.

 

​​​​​​
After some research I've decided that I'm going to go with Safelite when the time comes. They are local to me and will do it for $280 with a lifetime warranty if it happens again. I'm still not 100% sure that I want to spend that cash when it's already going to be tight saving up all summer for a truck but if it becomes an issue I will get it fixed. I'm looking to get myself a clean Second Gen Cummins from down south and drive my XJ as my winter beater rather than getting a clean truck all rusty. After my senior year I'm going to move down to Galveston TX and the dream is to get a southern XJ and make it my dream build along with my Cummins.

 

Check around and see what others will do it for. I had a local dad and son shop do it on my 00 for 150 dollars. While they have it out as mentioned above check it for rust issues and treat as necessary. Also, if I was your cousin and I did that to your jeep I'd offer to pay for the new glass.

Also on your "dream build" remeber that Galveston is a coastal town and even though it's the south the gulf is still salt water. Make sure whatever you buy is rust free or at least as free as you can get it. Check Arizona/New Mexico/Nevada/SOCAL if you want a truly rust free XJ

 

I wish he would pay for it but that won't happen in a million years. But this is also the kid that drilled a hole in his radiator while trying to install LED's, popped a tire trying to drive over a scrap pile, and put half of the minimum amount of oil in his 4.0 to account for "oil expansion" because it was hot out. No surprise that he started hearing knocking but swore that it was his fan shroud, then threw a rod the very next day. (it still ran on 5 cylinders because its a 4.0). And about the Galveston vehicles, I would get a XJ from somewhere in Central to Northern TX, not out of Galveston itself.

 

One thing just occurred to me.
That windshield my buddy did that to was on a '65 Buick Skylark.
Wondering how windshields from back then compare to now.
For starters going to assume they were thicker.
So I am wondering how well that idea might work on a "newer" windshield.

 

Yeah I'm not sure either. Might be worth it just for the simple fact that I'm gonna have it fixed in a couple months or so.

 

I have posted several articles on windshield replacements here on CF. Look them up. As for the crack, chances are you can't stop it. Several repair shops advertise they can stop and repair cracks up to 18" long. I've been doing automotive glass since 1977 and tried every new whiz bang gadget out and have never found a satisfactory repair. The enemy of glass damage is moisture that gets in the crack and then, as you stated, the heat and cooling expansion and contraction is what puts the pressure on the two different glass surfaces, i.e., the inner and outer layers of glass, thus moving the crack along its merry way.

Most current processes can mask the damage to the naked eye, but integrity of the glass layer is already lost. You won't hurt anything by trying to stop it especially since you plan to replace it anyway.

Please review my other posts as to replacement so you will be educated on what to look for in your replacement.

Happy Jeepin'
TexasTaz38

 

Went outside to start my XJ this morning in a frosty -10 degrees this morning, with another 4 inches added onto the end of the longest crack haha. I can't wait for better temps to get some much needed work done on this pig.

 

I just replaced my windshield - based on some searches in the forum, I was able to source a PGW windscreen and GGG molding. Based on the post, I would suggest you follow the advice of texastaz38 who suggested the following parts:
GGG or Precision molding
PGW or Pilkington windscreen

My molding and windshield look absolutely perfect!

I paid $275 out-the-door for a mom and pop shop, and this is for higher quality parts as compared to the crap Safelite will give you (people talk about how crappy the molding fits from Safelite). Safelite was $295 in my area.

As a point, I live in NC and the lowest price I saw was ~$175 (with low-quality parts) and $340 on the high end.

 

I agree, it's pretty easy. I used to work at a bodyshop and we removed and installed them frequently. Once you get the trim off, you can literally have the windshield out and on the bench in 15 minutes, even less if it 'cooperates'. Some glass shops will just sell you a windshield direct if you can convince them it's for your car and you know what you're doing. I'm not in the autobody field anymore, but I've replaced a few of my vehicle windshields. I haven't bought an XJ windshield (I probably should though) but I would expect a decent price would be anywhere from $115-$135. Maybe XJ windshields are more ...that price seems kind of high, did it include the moldings?

I'm sure there are a lot of youtube videos how to remove/install. Using the 'braided wire' method seems to be the best solution to remove IMO.

Overall, for $250-ish bucks, if you haven't done one before, you might as well make a phone call and pay someone to do it. By the time you buy the 'right' adhesives, etc and do the work, you're really not saving much money ..and there's a safety component to it too.

 

Keep looking for better pricing. Here in Socal, I had my windshield installed, out the door for $120 This was at a volume shop, but Socal may be more competitive.