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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 06:43 AM
  #16  
mossyoak20's Avatar
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I found a used motor for 715. Comes with up to a 2 year warranty and has 130k miles. Which is what I have now.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 10:17 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mossyoak20
I found a used motor for 715. Comes with up to a 2 year warranty and has 130k miles. Which is what I have now.
Nice find good luck.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 10:54 AM
  #18  
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I like the JY block idea. All new in-erds and you should be good.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 12:26 PM
  #19  
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X2 on trying the Sodium Silicate. An old timer told me about it years ago. Since you seem to be leaking on the outside you shouldn't need to worry about glass forming in your cylinders. I guess "back in the day" you could just get it at the pharmacy. Not sure though if it doesn't need the heat of the combustion cylinder to harden. If it doesn't then why wouldn't it mess up the radiator or the hearer core. Course they could both be bypassed for a few minutes....

BTW, that might be what they poured in engines to ruin them in "cash for clunkers"

Or even try an aluma-seal type product. A little worked on my heater core with no ill effects.

Wonder if that's what happens if cold water somehow rushes into a hot engine.

Last edited by DFlintstone; Nov 30, 2011 at 05:46 PM. Reason: try
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 03:41 PM
  #20  
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The KW leak sealer is what was used for the "cash for clunkers". I'm thinking about trying this and seeing what it does. Worst case is that it burns up my motor and have to replace it. Which will need to be replaced anyways.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 05:28 PM
  #21  
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I would pull the water pump first!!
A leak that close to it is very subject to a water pump gasket seepage....
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 09:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Caish
I would pull the water pump first!!
A leak that close to it is very subject to a water pump gasket seepage....
It starts before the pump though My original thought was the pump was leaking. Which is not big deal, but after letting it idle an watching the leak form. I can physically see the crack. I sprayed off the coolant with brake clean and watched it slowly form again.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 09:26 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mossyoak20
It starts before the pump though My original thought was the pump was leaking. Which is not big deal, but after letting it idle an watching the leak form. I can physically see the crack. I sprayed off the coolant with brake clean and watched it slowly form again.
If your sure.....
Remove all the crap in the way, and JB-Weld it.
If its close enough that you can reach the crack from inside the block behind
the water pump, I would pull it and JB-Weld it there too.

IF you have an oxygen/Acetolyene torch, you can gas weld it, or braze it, that is actually alot easier.
http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/info_..._cast_iron.htm
Would be my preferred method way before buying another engine, or water glass. JB-Weld to stop it as a temp fix.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #24  
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Max has a point. If that's an otherwise good engine it might be worth seeing if it's weldable. Cast is dodgy I guess, but you might want to have an experienced welder look at it.
Would be nice to see it all striped and clean/wire wheeled.

Don't know about getting that hot enough to braze it, don't think so. JB weld can be great in oil, but in water/steam.....doubtful.

..........................V, Yea Cash, maybe....on bare clean metal. Any rust & the like, I've had it fall off.

Last edited by DFlintstone; Nov 30, 2011 at 10:39 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #25  
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JB Weld is stable to 500* so a little heat from coolant is no big deal.
Its waterproof too.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 02:02 AM
  #26  
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jb weld is really great stuff but it will not be a permanent fix in any way
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 01:16 PM
  #27  
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Good news. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he apologizes and said he had no idea and gave me $500 towards a new engine.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 05:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mossyoak20
Good news. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he apologizes and said he had no idea and gave me $500 towards a new engine.
thats great for u good luck putting a new motor
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 05:26 PM
  #29  
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To be honest Id stick some JB weld on it and see if that will stop the leak. I actually had a friend who cracked his head on his mustang in auto tech. He jb weld the whole thing and then took it to the drill press and grinder and slapped it back on the car. Car still runs if your wondering.
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