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CPS Multimeter Test

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Old 02-07-2011, 01:49 AM
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Default CPS Multimeter Test

I tried to test the crank sensor in my non starting 99 Cherokee.I am not sure if I did the test right so I figured I would post here and get some input.

I found a site Basic RENIX / non-HO Engine Sensor Diagnostics

I went by what the site said to do for the CPS

Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the cps and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If it's out of that range by much; replace it. (* - Note: HO engines are measured from the B & C connectors and should have near zero ohms.)
I have not really used a multimeter much so as I said am not sure if what I did was correct.
I set my meter to the 200k ohm scale and tested across the first 2 pins in the connector from the left hand side and received the reading of 68.9.

I then set the meter to the 2000 ohm scale and the reading went up to 199 and then back to 1 which if I am correct means the reading is off the scale and that the sensor is bad.

Any input on this would be appreciated since a new sensor is $70 and I really dont want to just replace high dollar parts for no reason .
Old 02-07-2011, 05:21 AM
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yours is not a renix look here for testing infohttp://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowled...ex.htm#service
Old 02-07-2011, 12:52 PM
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So what do I have then? I just looked up renix and by the looks of it it was only used in 86,87,88?
Old 02-07-2011, 12:53 PM
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You have an H.O. Engine.
Old 02-07-2011, 10:20 PM
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Alright thanks guys.I will find the right test method and re try the test.
Old 07-11-2011, 12:03 AM
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Default The testing for the pcs on the HO is wrong please edit

I have a 95 jeep cherokee 4.0HO that was running fine. One morning it didn't start checked for spark there was none. So I figured that maybe the coil went bad. Comeback home from work and it started in the afternoon. This repeated for about 3 days so I did get a new coil thinking that was the problem well it worked for some unknown reason but only for one week, after changing coil did noticed that the spark I was getting was yellow low power from coil but it was working didn't think much about it. Then one morning nothing again no spark so back to square one, this time I tested the leads to coil and with ignition on I had 13v to the hot wire, and while cranking the engine I got 13v to the second lead I think it comes from the ECU. I though this was really weird that I had power to coil but no spark so then I tested the pickup coil module on the distributor did this by putting 2 paper clips on the harness going to the sensor on the rear you can force the paper clip so you can read the wire without pocking a hole on wires, so there is 3 wires the outside ones are the ones to be tested one is constant with ignition on got 5V the other is the return signal this will tell you if it works by having someone crank the engine for you and your meter should jump up and down on my digital it gave 5v signal on and off while its being cranked so it was good then I moved to reading the internet then I ran into false information on this page the PCS testing mine read 0 ohms between the leads B-C this is a bad sensor reading. At the store while getting a new one 3 days latter 20 hours of diagnosing took the multimeter with me and to my surprise there is resistance between all leads didn't matter between A-B or B-C or C-A a good CPS will have resistance between all leads. So I came home changed the CPS and it stated right up then I check my spark at wires and it was a nice blue. So I guess if your coil is good and you have no spark test the CPS. If you have a yellow spark at coil check CPS. This little part is a pain in the rear the END.
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