On my '98 XJ I had a water leak on the top middle of the windshield so today I pulled it out.

Found lots of rust along the pinch weld. Couple of small holes above the pinch weld, but not terrible.

I plan to wire wheel this back down to clean bare metal.

My first question is what type of primer or primer/paint would you recommend on the pinch weld for the windshield adhesive to bond to?

Second, I did quick google search for a new windshield, and didn't see any for sale online. Where is a good place to get one?

Also, After I put the new one in, I was thinking of sealing the top lip of the trim to prevent water from getting under it. It seems like water gets under that trim, and then most likely never dries out under there, making rust.

Thanks!

 

That rust needs to be thoroughly cleaned... Any rust holes need to be fixed...The low spots along the window channel need to be addressed or the new gasket won't seal properly...If you cheat it at any spot it will come back to bite you in short order...Are you looking for a windshield or the windshield gasket ???

 

Its a big job the fix a windscreen pinchweld, as every skerrick of old glue and rust must be removed

New metal must be formed and mig welded in (the headliner usually needs to come out)

2 part epoxy followed by 2 part primer/filler and topcoat seals against moisture ingress as it is virtually non-porous

a new seal should be fitted

I paid a pro with 30yrs experience $100 cash to fit mine in the driveway

He used a large amount of black sealer, cant recall what it was

I just used the old screen, which I removed using steel wound guitar strings and leather gloves so I didnt break it

If you let it get worse, you end up having to fully fabricate both inner and outer pinchwelds which are spot welded together, making the job much more complicated

 

I do need the whole windshield and the gasket that surrounds it..(has cracks) Did not see to much for availability online for the windshield.

I did some grinding and I am able to get that pinch nice and clean bright metal. However there is still pitting and bumps. I would think the window weld urethane will just fill those in?

 

I'll probably use this stuff.

 

Pinch weld is cleaning up nice with sanding and wire wheel on a drill. I was hoping to find a windshield online that could just be shipped straight to my house, but so far no luck.

After seeing that rust, I am not sure what was holding the old windshield on lol. Couldn't have been holding by much. I feel like that rubber trim molding around the windshield is trapping in dirt and debris moisture, which causes the rust. Not the best design

 

The windshield gasket has been around for many years and yes once it starts leaking it will rust... By the time you realize there's a problem it's usually too late to simply pump sealer around it....
That 3M window weld gets super hard and is used to set windshields that become a structural part of the vehicle{as in glued in and breaking for removal most times}.. The stuff used for gasketed windshields is more like a butyl rubber sealer that stays somewhat pliable.As the XJ flexes so will the gasket to a certain extent... The sealer will get used for not only the windshield frame but possibly the glass channel as well..
If the vehicle's window channel has too much void it will relax too far and let the windshield glass leak through it's channel so don't depend too heavily on the sealer at the pinchweld...The channel needs to be flat and painted correctly {as in NOT a spray bomb something catalyzed and waterproof as stated earlier} ..I'd call a local glass company and get them to come out and install it for a few bucks over the cost of the glass.. The installer will seal it up correctly and will tell you if that rusted channel will get the job done without wasting your money...Don't let the videos fool you.. The "rope trick" for installing a gasketed windshield doesn't always go as easy as it looks and it can be hard work let alone getting it sealed up correctly... I've restored 50s cars that the professional installers have given up trying to set them...They can be that hard...

 

Thanks for the tips.. When your talking about the "gasket " do you mean the black adhesive that bonds the windshield to the pinch weld, or the rubber trim that surrounds the glass? I have done other windshields on equipment where there is no adhesive, just a rubber gasket that holds the glass to the windshield frame.

I was able to find a urethane primer recommend by adhesive manufacturer. Comes in a small bottle, but expensive.

This is where im at so far, I have been using permatex rust dissolver (similar to Naval Jelly) .

 

My 98 had rust around the windshield and I had a shop here in Africa clean it up and
weld it. I ordered a windshield molding for about $50 for them to finish the job.
No leaks since.
The information was on this thread beginning at post 11.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/lea...245889/index2/

TexasTaz38 was very knowledgeable and helpful on this.

 

You need to get all the rust out of them pits, else it will keep rusting. Media blast is is very effective. or use a sharp carbide scribe tip and dig it all out. Effective, but time consuming. failure to remove it all will result it more rust, even if you coat it. the rust in some of them pits can go very deep, you likely will have through holes in the worst pitted places. but those holes can be filled successfully if the rust is removed.

wire wheels tend to smear the rust, fold good metal over the pits, or polish the rust and give a grey color to the surface, which can fool one into thinking the rust is removed, when actually it was simply smeared over and/or polished to a grey color.
sand paper is better than wire wheel in this regard, neither will remove rust from deep pits.

I have used DP two part primer to paint this area, good stuff, but pricey.

 

That's looking way better than I thought you'd end up with.. Great job.....OK you peaked my interest and I did some research on the gasket and called a few local installers specifically on the XJ... {I haven't had mine out} but have done similar ones.....Most of the older musclecar era windshields had a butyl "tape" to set the glass and a metal trim with clips..My understanding is that the urethane you've shown has now superseded the older style flexible sealer and most installers will just pump the hard urethane around the channel and call it done..Even the musclecars are getting done this way with no regard to the original process...All channel/pinchweld prep still applies..And you're correct that small bottle of primer is overpriced for what it is..That's an often missed step for the home installer crowd that comes back to bite you..But like I've said, that urethane is super hard and most will break the windshield trying to save a few bucks getting it out..
Have you found someone willing to ship the windshield ?? With the rough handling of modern day deliveries glass shipping is getting to be not cost effective to ship directly to you.. I've got way better deals having the local glass company get it then I pick it up from there.. But as stated before the best advice is have them install it..

 

BwanaBob - Thanks there is some good info on the topic in that post.

Your right robsjeep, there is still some black rust in the pitting. I have found the naval jelly rust dissolver is slowing getting it, followed by more grinding with some dremel bits. then repeat.

I didn't find anything online.. but a glass shop about a 1/2 hour from me has the glass for 100$ or 250$ installed. Not sure what route ill go yet. I realize that probably no glass company would have but this much work into getting the pinch weld clean.

 

Considering all your hard work, extra bucks for the best two part primer and new unscratched, unpitted glass is well worth it.

Dont neglect using a sharp carbide scribe to dig out the pits, it can be pretty quick once you got most of the rust removed. Another thing is a metal prep wash on the bare steel. Used after rust is removed, it will add in primer adhesion, and many of these metal, preps also enhance rust prevention. Rust Prep by AutoTech is a good product as is RustMort by SEM. ( RustSeal by SEM is different product, Id use the Rust Mort, or Rust Prep here) these are thin acid etchants that are applied, allowed to etch, then excess is wiped off with a water dampened clean rag. this is done right before primer coat. these may also contain some zinc for a galvanic protection. I use Rust Prep a lot, great stuff.

Use skin and eye protection with these chemicals.

 

Thanks for those tips, I may get one of those products and test it out. I'm tempted pull it out of the garage on a nice day and sand blast it... One thing I like about the sandblasting is that it "dulls" the surface which also seems good for primer adhesion.

 

media blasting is made for this job! masking will be fun, you dont want the media inside the vehicle!. a big yes on blasting.

have fun!