Cherokoolguy

Forgive me if i do something wrong. I am brand spanking new to this forum.

I just recently bought a 1992 xj with 180,000 miles as a project. I am starting by changing the fluids and i looked at my transmission fluid and it is a lighter shade of brown on a white paper towel. I have seen so many pictures depicting what good and bad oils are but i am still concerned with the state that my transmission is in. Is shifts great and it doesn't slip. If i hand't known better I would think my transmission is ship shape. Should i be worried?

My second question is a light that is between the brights switch and the rear defroster switch. It stays on all of the time. What does it mean?

My third and last situation is i have an incredibly small oil leak towards the back part of my oil pan and the front of the transmission. I get home to check it one day and there is one solitary drop of oil (fluid maybe?) on my driveway. Ill meander under the car and wipe away the oil and i don't see it again for about 4-5 days. People tell me this is just a symptom of an old car and some tell me otherwise. Should i be worried?

,Tyler

DeltaOP4

Wouldn't worry about the transmission. If it shifts good and doesn't slip, with 182k on it I wouldn't worry about it too much. Not sure which light you are talking about so can't help there. And the third item is your rear main seal. Common for them to leak. I'm actually going to be replacing mine in a couple of days. Normally you would have to remove the transmission but with the Cherokee it's a two piece seal so that isn't necessary. To do it yourself it should cost you roughly $100 for everything. If you aren't comfortable with doing that I'd just leave it alone. Not a huge deal. Just remember to keep the oil full if it's a bad enough leak.

Cherokoolguy

ok thanks a bunch. I will probably end up replacing the seal. Big help!! Would a transmission fluid change do more harm than good?

DeltaOP4

If you do a "flush" with that many miles to there is a fair chance something could. As far as dropping the pan and refilling it goes, that should be fine.

EZEARL

There's a drain plug on the trans pan. Drain the fluid. I measure how much comes out then replace it. Use Dextron/Mercon. Use the vehicle for awhile(100mi will do). Check the fluid again. Repeat this procedure until the fluid looks new. No filter to replace.

DeltaOP4

Oh, there is a drain plug? Didn't know that. Easy enough then.

salad

Welcome to Cherokee Forum!

Like EZEarl said, you need to change that fluid. It's not bad yet, but it's certainly overdue. Dex/Merc (or D/M) is sold everywhere. It is a vibrant red when in good condition. That fluid has been run hot and is dirty - time to go! Beware that someone will try to tell you to use Chrysler ATF because Chrysler bought Jeep - the transmission is actually from Japan and uses GM fluid. (Assuming you have the 4.0L automatic - the 2.5L automatic is another story)


I'm not familiar with the old-style interior. Someone else will probaby chime in!

And yes, strictly speaking, older vehicles develop leaks, much like old people. However, unlike people, you can easily replace parts on a Jeep. The engine in these things is pointed nose-up, so if there's a leak ANYWHERE it will run back to the rear. A lot of people misdiagnose a leaky valve cover (the bolts might just be loose, even!) for a rear main seal. Aside from the valve cover, the next most common culprit is the oil filter adapter. You need to give the engine a bath and then track down where the leak really is.

Cherokoolguy

I really appreciate the help. Definitely have my work cut out.

DeltaOP4

Good point didn't think of that. My oil filter adapter must be different then since there's not really a way that it would just drain down to where the bell housing is. Huh.

DFlintstone

Listen to Salad. (Delta, it can, and does blow back, mimicking a leaking RM)

The overwhelming forum consensus for the (nearly bullet-proof), AW-4 is to just let the detergent in the Dexron do the job. Forget changing the "filter", it's just a screen. Getting aggressive flushing and such might dislodge junk and be a problem. Just drain what drains, and refill till your dipstick says it's up. (running hot in park). If it's not nice and pink change it more often till it is, like with oil changes.

Cherokoolguy

Are there multiple types of dextron/mercon fluid?
If so does it matter which one i use in my jeep?

EZEARL

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-...Fluid/15125788

bryanintowson

congrats on the new to you 92! That was the year Jeep Eagle sponsored the Olympics:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...mpics&_sacat=0

I picked up a nifty key chain a while back from that year.

Anywho - the only switch I can think of that's on the dashboard that's not the defroster is the foglight switch if your truck came with that installed, mine didn't.

Drain and fill the trans and do a mini service - new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and throttle body cleaning and change out the fluids if they are old.

My 92 just passed 189K and now with a new MSD coil and new injectors I cannot believe how well it's running.

cruiser54

Here's a little diddy on RMS leaks....




I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 02-26-2013

Cherokoolguy

For anyone wondering this is the light I'm talking about. But I have an idea of where the leak is and I'm going to change my transmission fluid this week.