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Coolant draining before head swap

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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:02 PM
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Default Coolant draining before head swap

I'm about to do the infamous head swap on my '00 XJ and would like to know the best way to drain the coolant. Is it just enough to remove the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant? I want to make sure I don't make a big mess when I remove the top hoses from the thermostat after I pull the car into the garage. I also rather not run the car long enough to open the thermostat given the condition of the oil/coolant. Of course I'll do a complete flush after the swap along with changing the hoses, etc. Thanks in advance.
I have everything lined up to dig in first thing in the morning...

Last edited by Kalali; May 26, 2012 at 08:04 PM.
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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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could probably have better luck doing the bottom hose then removing the water pump, but you could still spill a bit of coolant when removing the head.
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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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Lower rad hose, then break loose upper hose to let air in.

Be prepared for SOME extra.
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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Fsher21
could probably have better luck doing the bottom hose then removing the water pump, but you could still spill a bit of coolant when removing the head.
Why remove water pump?!?
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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:07 PM
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I was under the assumption the opening was lower, letting more of the coolant out. I suppose it would be more work especially if the engine isn't getting pulled.
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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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Why go to all the trouble, unless you're replacing the hoses as well?

Remove the radiator cap, open up the drain plug on the radiator. Easier to catch the coolant that way.

You'll probably still lose a little as you lift the head off, but it won't be enough to cause trouble. This is how I've drained the block when pulling the head, and it's worked well for me so far
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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:17 PM
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Either way it looks like its going to be messy. Even removing the lower hose is going to make a big mess...I just need to drive the car about 100 feet to get it into the garage. I don't think overheating will be an issue.
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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:22 PM
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5-90, that's how I prefer to do it to catch the coolant but I could not find the radiator drain plug. The FSM says it is on the left side but I just can't see it....Do I need to remove something to see it, I assume from underneath...
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Old May 26, 2012 | 08:54 PM
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if the rad is older, you may cause more problems by opening it up anyway. They can break off or leak easier than expected. Just be careful, but it should be on the side of the tank, on the bottom left if you want to use it.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Kalali
5-90, that's how I prefer to do it to catch the coolant but I could not find the radiator drain plug. The FSM says it is on the left side but I just can't see it....Do I need to remove something to see it, I assume from underneath...
I had to take off my entire front grill (8 screws I think), but yours may be different. The draincock was on the passenger side right above the bumper stop.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 07:09 AM
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Radiator hoses. 2 pipe clamps. Done.

Why make it harder than it is?
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Old May 27, 2012 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
Radiator hoses. 2 pipe clamps. Done.

Why make it harder than it is?
x2 lower radiator hose (only one hose clamp removal is required ), don't bother with the draincock.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RenegadeT
x2 lower radiator hose (only one hose clamp removal is required ), don't bother with the draincock.
x3
What draincock....they are non accessible on my 99.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BotakBeng

x3
What draincock....they are non accessible on my 99.
They are, but I think you have to take the headlight and turn signal out. It's a hassle.
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Old May 28, 2012 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Nperryman
They are, but I think you have to take the headlight and turn signal out. It's a hassle.
Well, I did find the drain plug (as described above - passenger side) but way too hard to access and turn. So I went the lower hose route and worked fine and was able to catch most of the coolant with a deep wide bucket.
Most of the disassembly is done. Stopped short of removing the head; too late, too tired and too heavy. Removing the manifolds was a bear but doable. The exhaust manifold is a bit hard to move away from the head, specially in the back. I think I will separate it from the exhaust and take it out. That will give me the option of assembling the head and the manifolds on a bench and install as a unit. May not be a bad idea given the location of all those bolts. But I'll definitely need to get help handling it as a unit - probably weigh 100+ lbs and bulky.
I must say, without this site I would have not even attempted a job like this. I feel like I have a whole army of experts behind me...Thanks.
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