Controversial Electrical Fix: PCM vs CPS
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CF Veteran




Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 226
From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
1996 Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport, 4.0L, manual trans.
Ongoing problem: Tach drops to zero and engine cuts out when driving. Happens more when water splashes under engine or after engine compartment rinsed out.
Recently I tried zip-tying the plugs on my PCM, then read that one could damage the sockets that way. Good thing I didn't yank them as tight as Atlas with the pliers, they are just hand snug. Also, Jeep was still cutting out a couple of days later.
Sometime after that attempt, it threw the 11 code along with the 72. I checked the Crank Position Sensor plug (replaced that sensor, probably needlessly, about 7 years ago), refreshed the dielectric grease, the gasket seemed swollen and was difficult to jam the plug back together. Used a small zip-tie for insurance.
Hasn't cut out in about 1 week.
Ongoing problem: Tach drops to zero and engine cuts out when driving. Happens more when water splashes under engine or after engine compartment rinsed out.
Recently I tried zip-tying the plugs on my PCM, then read that one could damage the sockets that way. Good thing I didn't yank them as tight as Atlas with the pliers, they are just hand snug. Also, Jeep was still cutting out a couple of days later.
Sometime after that attempt, it threw the 11 code along with the 72. I checked the Crank Position Sensor plug (replaced that sensor, probably needlessly, about 7 years ago), refreshed the dielectric grease, the gasket seemed swollen and was difficult to jam the plug back together. Used a small zip-tie for insurance.
Hasn't cut out in about 1 week.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 238
From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Water splash causing electrical shorting out is definitely a sign of some exposed wiring or connector issue.
As far as a CPS on a manual Jeep - with 3 manual Jeeps in my family (95 XJ, 94 XJ, 00 TJ) over more than 700,000 combined miles, none have ever needed a new CPS. My theory is the higher operating temp of the auto tranny is what causes CPS failure. It's just a theory, maybe we've just been lucky.
I would guess that moisture in your case in the connector for the CPS is your root cause considering what you've described.
Keep us posted - definitely helpful info here.
As far as a CPS on a manual Jeep - with 3 manual Jeeps in my family (95 XJ, 94 XJ, 00 TJ) over more than 700,000 combined miles, none have ever needed a new CPS. My theory is the higher operating temp of the auto tranny is what causes CPS failure. It's just a theory, maybe we've just been lucky.
I would guess that moisture in your case in the connector for the CPS is your root cause considering what you've described.
Keep us posted - definitely helpful info here.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran




Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 226
From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
On my usual route to/from work, I made a point to hit the bumps that used to trigger the engine cutout problem. I had developed a habit of swerving away from certain manhole covers and bumps (as do other drivers on these roads). No problem now.
The water splashing mentioned earlier was usually associated with a bump in the road too. However, after I washed the engine after tinkering (cleaning up the accumulated crud and old spilled oil to find gasket leaks) I was getting random cutouts. Not getting those now, but everything under the hood has been dry for a while too. Debating tempting fate by opening and re greasing all connectors, since the seals seem to be difficult to press back into their sockets now.
The water splashing mentioned earlier was usually associated with a bump in the road too. However, after I washed the engine after tinkering (cleaning up the accumulated crud and old spilled oil to find gasket leaks) I was getting random cutouts. Not getting those now, but everything under the hood has been dry for a while too. Debating tempting fate by opening and re greasing all connectors, since the seals seem to be difficult to press back into their sockets now.
you may have a damaged part of the metal contacts within the connector, usually the female part gets loose or pushed back
inspecting the parts under bright light and magnification, with a needle, will usually show
at the end of the day, it is possible to replace a connector, with new, junkyard, alternative, or even hardwire
inspecting the parts under bright light and magnification, with a needle, will usually show
at the end of the day, it is possible to replace a connector, with new, junkyard, alternative, or even hardwire
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