I just spoke with http://www.mrinjector.us/ Bill.. I bought Filters and O rings for my stock units and for some used injectors Boche 784's that are on the way.. He told me for this style Intake spray pattern is not critical if not relevant at all. Thats why Jeep kept using these injectors that shoot gas like a water gun. Spray pattern is critical in OTHER applications but not on the 4 liter because, according to Bill, this style intake will put gas in a READY mode for use during driving and that gas can SIT inside the motor/ head/ cylynder until its used.. So spray patter is meaningless.. Somehting like this he told me.. Im no motor genius.. These guys have all the rebuild parts for the stock injectors. Anyway, I now have in my possession the fords stated here, I have 2 sets of stock injectors that will be refurbished to new, and I have a set of 784's that Im rebuilding with new rings, filters and caps, I will also be ordering the c4b's. When I am done I will have mileage specs on ALL 4 sets of injectors.. I will run two tanks out on each style to see what gas mileage I get.. When im done the results will be exacting.. Right now im lucky to get 15mpg with these fords Im running as stated in this thread. By the time Im done I will have spend hundreds of dollars to rebuild and buy injectors.. So much so i will begin to sell them off.. I even bought a Jewlry cleaner to clean the tips. lol.. All in the persuit of better gas mileage.. Im starting to spend so much on injectors that I wont make it up on gas..

 

buysellny, seems like a lot of work. Cant wait for the results though. Hopefully you can make your money back by selling the 3 sets you dont use. Thanks for the dedication and cant wait to hear what you find out.

 

I know! I appologize to anyone if I sound like a complainer or ranting fool.. Im just pissed at 13mpg now and going lower? Feel like Im leaking fuel! runs great however.. Im leaning towards this being oxegen sensors.. 13mpg? today I cleaned out the vacume hose to the airbox and the one connected to the manifold and the back of the valve cover. It was clogged to crap! I was pulling tar out of it.. Not sure if it helped..

Im waiting on the 784's right now, along with rebuild kit and Im waiting on the 63mm throttle body. Still trying to figure out how not to spend 200 bucks on a cold air intake.. I ran across this thread so im going to fabricate like this if I can! The K and N filter alone 3" by 4" cone is about 60
bucks!

By the way.. Installing new parts will cause new results on gas mileage effectively voiding the test on teh ones I have in here now.. This might take months!

Check this out!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/m...83/index3.html

 

if your lookign for a "cold" air intake, this is what i have on mine. http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...Category_Code=

cheap and simple. just gotta make a heat shield and you will be all good

 

check this one out:

Yeh I was looking at that.. However, you can make one of those things for pennies on the dollar at plumbing supply..

I am debating cutting up the hood and attempting so sort of poor mans RAM AIR system.. LOL.. I also found this setup for a Mazda Miata.. Check this out with paddle tube I can stick or route behind the headlight I bet with some work..http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

What do you think? Why buy that thing from Rustys.. All you need is pipe dope and PVC for that with a connector. I was going to run smooth tubing the whole way to the throttle body, High Heat resistant plumbing tube to remove the air pockets that are in the stock tube connected to the throttle body. Those stock tubes are decreasing flow.. Beter to spin the air in a vortex within a tubing system with ram air.. I estimate 10 to 15hp doing it that way.. I dont know.. Simple pipe dope and PVC should be fine and I doubt it will melt but I would hate to find out..

Im also considering running copper tubing and sodder.. I might also use aluminum pipe if I can figure out how to keep it sealed since I can't weld it.. Aluminum would be the best since its a cold conductor..


I am also considering running IRON pipe with one small elbow on the throttle body and a vortext air spinner inside another fitting midway in the pipe. I will then connect it to the filter and box it in. I might even run an IRON elbow below the front of the truck and run the piple sticling out just under the front bumper for forced air intake and High flow.. Shouldnt be too hard to do! Its a lot of cutting however. I think using IRON is the best or aluminum pipe even better.. Wont be cheap..

 

yea,i probably would of made mine but when i bought my jeep, the guy had this already on there so i cant complain. when i sold my first bored TB, the guy made his own out of an exhaust coupler, duct tape, and a paint stirring stick haha. it worked till we broke it.

I dont think your gona see a 10-15mph gain, thats just the BS the companies tell you to get you to buy a product and "prove" it by showing you a dyno chart of one vehicle it actually had those gains on. If you look at the dynos that k&n show, it is usually just a random vehicle and not the one you are selecting the products for. You will mostly just see a gain in throttle response. Not saying they arent worth it by no means, i LOVED the intake on my dakota. It sounded mean as hell and got thru the rpm ranges a lot quicker. Cant say anything about with the XJ tho since its had a cone filter since i bought it.

 

Well I got the throttle body Saturday. Its got a brass opening flange and looks like new.. Its 63mm from the guy on eBay.. Im not sure what to do about the intake as i would rather spend money ona good setup then waste time.. I also got the 784 injectors and a rebuild kit for them as well as all USCAR connectors for backflushing.. They come ohm tested also. Ill pop those in with cold air intake and throttle body. Exhuaust is brand new BUT not big pipe.. I was reading haynes manual at 82k your suppose to chage o2 sensors or a code is suppose to be thrown indicating a change? I bet I need that..

 

if a o2 sensor is bad, it will throw a check engine light. you can swap them out if your feel like it and you might get a tiny increase in mpg because the old one may not be reading 100% correct.

if the front is bad, you may notice buring lean or rich along with bad gas mileage
if the back is bad, nothing will happen except a CEL. all the rear one does is tell you if your cat is functioning. It doesnt deal with air/fuel mixtures or anything.

use NTK (ngk's brand) of o2 sensors, not bosch. Im sure theres a few others, but definetly stay away from the bosch ones. Check the NTK site for which product number you need then jump on http://www.rockauto.com/ and see if they have it. The sensors there were like half the price as the autozone ones. And since your buying crap, if you destroyed your fan shroud like everyone else, they are like $6 on rockauto lol. Also will need a 7/8" wrench to take the sensor out, its a tight spot if you didnt look at it yet.

 

EMAXX! Thanks man for this great info! I am a novice mechanic at best.. lol So this info is very helpful.. You saved me a bunch of cash here.. Im going to change the front one. That the one up near the header Right?.. Thats the upstream right? Sounds like a ***** to get out.. Haynes says to warm up the car to get it out first and that doing it cold will make it very difficult to get out. They say change at 82K.. Thanks again.. 7am.. Im doing the 63mm throttle body I bought from this guy today. The brass flap inside is really slick and cool looking.. Not sure why brass: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I also have to get a high flow filter and Im going to build out a custom flow pipe with standard plumbing supplies, brackets, flanges and boots. I may find out this wont work.. lol I love screwing around with this Jeep..

 

looks like 4 o2 sensors on Rock auto? Which one do i need? its a 2001 Sport 4.0.. There are 4 sensors on this truck.. I need the upstream Front? Pre Cat? Is that right?

 

yeah pre-cat. The one after the cat converter doesn't help your air/fuel mixture, just tells you if your burning very lethal emisions lol.
upstream/pre-cat.

 

the brass butterfly in the new TB is because if you look at your current one, theres a bar that goes across the top of the stock butterfly. The stock (aluminum i think) one is about twice as thick and the brass one is a lot thiner, and since he cut the bar on the top half, he needed to use shorter bolts in it. The reasoning behind this is that when at full throttle or near it, theres less resistance in the airflow since the top half of the bar is gone. In the end, i dont know if it makes a difference at all, but who cares lol.

for the o2 sensor, you need the pre-cat (upstream) sensor. Not entireley sure why they have 2 pre cat and 2 post cat sensors listed. Im guessing 2 of them are for california jeeps since they have CARB there. Im pretty sure mine was 23506. Try swapping to the 2000 year on NTK site and it says which ones are for california, and which ones are not. if its same as mine, the one you need to chance is right after the downpipe bend if i remember right. You might be able to get it off while its cold, worth a shot but it may need to be warmed up.

hope that helps a bit