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Complete Instructions for Eliminating Oil Filter Adaptor on Jeep XJ Cherokee

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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by zak873
no, it wouldnt have touched my filter if I wouldnt have done the mod.. I realize that the broke motor mount is the problem, but maybe some people won't be as lucky and break a motor mount and have the same thing happen.
My point exactly.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 11:13 PM
  #62  
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Hey man, sorry, that sucks. Yea I guess a prerequisite to this is replacing your motor mounts.
Here's some photos
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Stupid pin
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Bosch 3330.

Did my first oil change today and I still didn't cut off enough nipple, so I had to lift the engine up to get my filter out, but you could just cut more off.

By the way, my buddy brought to my attention that flow rates are different for different filters, so just keep that in mind when doing this. I'm not going to look for the differences in the original and the 3614/3330 because It works for me.

Just a warning, if something goes wrong, don't blame me
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 05:52 AM
  #63  
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Here's some good reading on oil filter quality. FWIW, someone once told me the factory Neon oil filter was a good one to use for this conversion.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil.../opinions.html
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 09:33 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Here's some good reading on oil filter quality. FWIW, someone once told me the factory Neon oil filter was a good one to use for this conversion.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil.../opinions.html
Good thing I used a Bosch to break my engine in
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by zak873
well after a long night of wheeling, it didn't hold up. was doing som pretty tough stuff and bouncing off rocks in a river. seen some smoke pouring out from under my hood, popped it and my filter was smashed. my motor mount shifted and broke, taking out the oil filter with it. so after going to walmart at 10 pm, got the fram filter and some oil to get me home. putting the adapter back on so I don't have to deal with this ****. even if it fixed the leak, I'd rather it leak that little bit then the huge amount when it smashed my filter.
i think ill leave mine alone, that had to suck
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 12:56 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
My point exactly.
put the adapter back on and wheeled for about 10 hours yesterday with no problems, so that backs up what I said.

Originally Posted by freegdr
i think ill leave mine alone, that had to suck
haha yeah it did, but it wasn't a "costly" repair so it wasnt to bad. put the adapter back on yesterday morning with the same old o-rings, just cleaned them up good, and it hasn't leaked with the adapter on yet. I was kind of nervous about putting the adapter back on without the roll pin but I had my friend hold the adapter where I wanted it, then cranked it down and its stayed so far. ordering motor mounts this week thankfully though
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 02:26 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by zak873
put the adapter back on and wheeled for about 10 hours yesterday with no problems, so that backs up what I said.



haha yeah it did, but it wasn't a "costly" repair so it wasnt to bad. put the adapter back on yesterday morning with the same old o-rings, just cleaned them up good, and it hasn't leaked with the adapter on yet. I was kind of nervous about putting the adapter back on without the roll pin but I had my friend hold the adapter where I wanted it, then cranked it down and its stayed so far. ordering motor mounts this week thankfully though
kool
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #68  
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People that are doing this could do a relocation...
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/157...oductId=961946
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by 89Laredo
People that are doing this could do a relocation...
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/157...oductId=961946
That's my question. If you're doing an OF relocation, can you just eliminate the adapter and connect directly to the block?
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 03:13 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Danian619

That's my question. If you're doing an OF relocation, can you just eliminate the adapter and connect directly to the block?
Yes. Different mounting surface though. Just need to make sure what you get will seal to the block. Whether it be a 3614/3330 or relocation kit.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #71  
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So this whole modification of eliminating the adapter will basically make the oil filter mount on the block the same way the oil filter mounts on small block mopar (273,318,340 and 360) engines? Is this correct?
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #72  
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For those with Renix era Jeeps,the issue with the oil filter and male to male nipple is that the original one is long...and has metric threads,so only a select few filters will fit. Do yourself a favor(even if you don't want to eliminate the troublesome oil filter adapter),take and saw down the original long nipple,remove it,and go to the dealership and buy. A nipple for a 95 xj 4.0. It's SAE threads on both ends,and is way shorter,allowed me to run an 090 Moose oil filter. I did this on my 90 and am about to do the mod of getting rid of the adapter. Will remove the nipple from the adapter and screw it directly into the block as instructed after I remove the roll pin.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:05 PM
  #73  
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Just outta curiousity if the renix xjs (like mine) have the metric threads on both ends how does an sae thread screw into that? Wouldn't that cross thread it.
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #74  
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The end that screws into the adapter is SAE ...the end that the filter screws onto is metric...only on Renix jeeps
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by 90_cherokee
090 Moose oil filter.
*mopar... lol Which is the same thing as a wix/napa btw, if you want to save yourself a couple bucks. (~3 vs 6)

I see no problem with the "long" nipple, I actually like it. Makes it less of PITA, especially if you have your filter setup like the HOs (above the starter). Less of a chance of dropping the filter.
I am going to switch to the standard nipple though, so I can run the FL1a.
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