toast018

I just recently bought my first Jeep. A 1995 2 door 4x4 5speed on 31's with lockers front and rear. I was told by the previous owner that he changed the dif fluids about 3 years ago.
The Jeep currently has right at 160K miles on it. I use it as a DD and drive right at 80 miles round trip to work. I wanted to get a baseline MPG before changing anything. Currently I average 14.5 MPG with roughly 75% interstate 15% country and 10% city. Have got 16.3MPG once. (dont know how that happened)
Hope I can improve that with changing to full synthetics.

I want to change the dif/axle, transfer case, tranny, and engine oil all in the same day. I have searched and searched on this and 2 other forums about recommended fluids. This is what I have found

The transfercase was simple. almost everyone agreed on Dex-III... (I forget the amount it holds)

The ax15 tranny was a different story:
Do use 10w 40 synthetic motor oil in the ax15
Do not use 10w 40 synthetic motor oil in the ax15 or any motor oil
Redline MT90 is where it's at
No way Amsoil MTG is what you should use
Use what the FSM says to 75w 90 GL3 not GL5

After 2 hours of reading what to use then later reading no dont use that I decided to post my situation to see what everyone thinks would work best for me.


Here is my personal situation:
I find it hard to shift into 2nd and 3rd without double clutching.
Even worse when cold.
I drive it every single day EVERYWHERE. I put no less than 550 miles on it a week when I dont ride trails and no less than 700 when I do.

I ride on ProComp M/T 31" and a 3.5" lift.


Here are my thoughts. Please let me know if I am on the right track or if I should go a different route...

I bought Royal Purple Max-Gear for the front and rear Dif.

I have Royal Purple Syncromax that I was thinking of putting in the tranny (I bought it to use in my SVT Focus but it died before I could change the trans fluid) cause i didnt want it to go to waste. And according to their website it can be used in the transfercase as well. Is this true?

I bought the NAPA brand WIX filter cause I heard it was the best/longest lasting filter for the 4.0L engine.

I want to buy Royal Purple 10w 30 for the engine oil.



Anything i forgot?

Thanks so much in advance! I have drove nothing but small FWD cars for the last 7 years and always wanted a 2 door cherokee. Now that I have one I want it to last forever.

TXstiGuy

Ok so this question is way to long but I'll try and answer all you question. 1st I too own a 1995 2dr cherokee. Ax-15 I use mobil 1 syn 75x90 GL5. 2nd you shouldn't have to "double clutch anything you have syncros, maybe less FndFand now I forgot the rest of you questions Good luck.

toast018

No FandF here. I shift at around 2K RPM, and do 65 on the Interstate. I dont have to double clutch but when I dont, going from 1st to 2nd makes a solid clunk sound and has quite abit of resistance. When I double its as smooth as warm butter....

Quazzimoto

In my oppinion mobil 1 synthetic is way better than royal purple... Royal purple is a rip off

TXstiGuy

It sounds like you syncro is going out. Double clutching is used on old **** like my 49 gmc column shift 3 speed no syncros yours is shot or worn down hence having to bump your clutch its common

whowey

GL-5 in your tranny is a no-no... you need to use a GL-4 or GL-3 fluid. But the chances of finding a GL-3 is going to be VERY hard. That particular specification is expired and was replaced by the GL-4.

Switching from a crapped out dino fluid to a full synthetic will help with some shifting problems. Usually though its the cold weather issues rather than an overall hard shifting problem.

RP's Syncromax would be the WRONG fluid for your tranny. Its not intended for trannies that require gear lubes.

I have used Redline's MT-90 and now I have my customers using the Amsoil MTG. Both are excellent choices.

I am not a fan of any of RPs products. Their focus has gone from producing good products to marketing so-so ones.

Honestly, don't expect more than an MPG or two at the most from a fluid swap. It simply doesn't do a heck of alot in an aerodynamic brick...

toast018

Would it be ok for the Transfer Case?

85on32+4

i would say that if you wanted to run full synthetic, its a good idea and couldnt hurt but the difference to the gas mileage would be marginal at best....

for diff... 80w90 any brand cheap or not
for your clutch take DOT3 brake fluid ( your clutch is hydraulic i think)
and pour it in your clutch fluid... this wont hurt it and will give you a bunch more clutch. resivour shoul be on drver side close to bottom of front windshield

fallenknight308

Redline MT-90 in that AX15.
Mobil-1 syn Gear oil in the diffs.
Mobil-1 15W-50 in the block. (or amsoil, pricey though)
I used amsoil's high-zinc formula in my block, cause its supposedly
good with flat-tappet engines. I like going overkill, cause its the only vehicle I own,
and I like to spoil it...hehe.

Willys55

I double clutch my Mack

whowey

I'm not sure... RP claims that it is acceptable for manual trannies requiring auto trans fluid or 10w-30 or 10w-40 motor oils. Your tranny is requires GL-4 gear lube. Gear lube is much thicker and has a completely different additive package than ATF or motor oils. ATF doesn't normally contain many viscosity improvers, yet multi-weight motor oil contains them. But.. inside of a transfer case the operating enviroment is much different than either a tranny or engine. You don't see the pump pressures or the creation of the same heat levels.

That particular fluid has always concerned me as they try to meet two different sets of requirements with the same fluid when at times those requirements have some fairly large technical differences.