I need to replace the clutch and stuff in my 95 Cherokee and i was wondering what clutch set yall recommend. Is the one they sell at advance auto parts good enough? Its a dd and i occationally do some wheeling in it.

 

I plan on a Napa clutch, and I will be going direct to Jeep for the master and slave cylinders.

 

I've got an exedy...machined my flywheel myself...Timken (internal) slave and rhinopac master, earls stainless braided line. Going on one year, no problems so far. (Knock on wood)

 

I've got to replace the slave cylinder on my '93 (internal slave) so I'm going to replace the clutch since the bellhousing is coming off. A lot of people have recommended the LUK clutch, which was OEM.

Autozone used to sell LUK re-boxed under their Duralast in-house brand. Went there first but the box I looked at was Valeo. Good news is that NAPA is selling LUK clutches re-boxed as the NAPA brand. Hoping it's the same quality - should be - anyway that's what I'm going with.

I'm tearing into mine on Friday morning. I'll post over the weekend if there are any issues with it.

 

I'm hopefully doing mine in the next few evenings.

Hopefully.

 

yea i need to do mine soon. the last time i went 4 wheeling in my jeep after a few hours, i guess once it got pretty hot, i couldnt put it in gear. i pretty much had to crank it in gear. it got better on my way home. does that sound like a wore out clutch?

 

I replaced mine with a complete set from autozone. Can't remember which brand it was but I havent had any issues with it yet and it's been 20k+ miles so far on it. (daily driver and have driven half way across the county with it)

 

Picked up the clutch at NAPA this morning. It is a LUK clutch kit (stamped on pressure plate) - just FYI. So, happy about that, now a couple of days of wrenching love on the xj.

 

That sounds more like oil or synchro issues.

The only way the clutch should be causing problems putting it into gear is if the clutch is not disengaging. That doesn't have anything to do with the friction plate. Would be either master or slave cylinder, low clutch fluid it a leak causing lack of pressure to disengage it.

 

or its the master slave cylinder i did the clutch it didnt help i did the master cylinder and it works amazing now

 

Mine did the same thing. It ended up being the master, but I also replaced the slave as well. Kept the line though since it still looked fine.

 

ok well i'll probly be replacing the master cylinder then

 

Started in on my clutch today. As we've all read the two top Tork bolts are probably the worst part of the project. Everything I've read said the bolts require an E12 Tork socket - mine was an E14. It's very hard to see the bolts and I kept trying to get that socket seated and couldn't. Finally my help, (good help) said I think it needs a bigger socket. My jeep's a 2wd, not sure that had any relevance but that E14 socket cost me a couple of hours of time. Bellhousing's off new clutch goes in tomorrow.

 

Do everything. Any old crappy fluid will ruin any other new hydraulic component of your system. Or if $$$ doesn't permit, thoroughly flush your system. I made this mistake once...