I have brought this up in an existing thread but I thought I would start one to hopefully get catch a few more eyes and hopefully some good ideas. The clutch does partially disengage just not entirely. The clutch does fully engage with the pedal all the way out. When the engine is running I am not able to put it in any gear. When the jeep is not running I can shift the transmission through all gears. Also with the jeep not running, with the pedal on the floor and in gear, the clutch still grabs enough that it will not roll on a slight hill due to gravity, but as soon as you pull it out of gear it rolls freely. When the pedal is on the floor, the engine is able to start with the transmission in gear. However if I force it (not easily) out of gear I can't get it into any gear. You can also smell the clutch disc burning while the engine is running with it in gear and pedal all the way in. My initial thought was that it seems that it wasnt getting enough pressure. However, I have replaced both the master and the slave and bled the system thoroughly, with no change. I just replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing when I put in the new engine one year ago. Some have suggested the pilot bearing. Do you think that the pilot bearing would go bad this quickly? Are all of these symptoms of a bad pilot bearing? Any other ideas out there? Thanks in advance for the help.

 

air in slave cyl bleed it see what happens

 

I bled it what I thought was really well after I installed the slave and a second time after I installed the master. But I will definitley try again before I take out the transmission to take a look. Thanks for the advice.

 

Not if i helped you before, but ive had this problem and many do.

Options:
1) buy a new flywheel, its been machined down too much and is causing all your problems

2) shim your flywheel away from the motor.

3) Make a longer rod for your slave cylinder, if its the external

4) adjust the ball that the clutch fork rides on, opposite of the slave. I havent tried this

I choose option 3 and it worked, Just found some round stock close to the same diameter as the slave rod and made it like 1/8 longer. Then rounded the ends.

 

I do have the external slave so the longer rod option is the most tempting to me. I will definitely give it a shot before I take out the transmission. my biggest question is what caused this. Are you saying that the clutch disc has worn the flywheel down too far? I have never had the flywheel machined. This problem started all of a sudden is that the way it was in your case. Thanks a lot! I really appreciate the help.

 

This happened to me after i machined the flywheel and put a new clutch in.

So this just started happening all of a sudden?

Edit: oh i see now, you replaced the clutch and hydraulic system. My theory is, whenever i help ppl with these problems, that all those after market parts are just off enough to make it not fully disengage. I originally removed my floor mat and it barely worked for my at the floor, i got sick of pushing it all that way so i made a long rod

 

When I replaced my clutch, I found the rod for the slave unit had 2 plastic cups on the end of the rod, where it goes into the clutch. Couldint find replacement from stealership had to buy whole unit. The cups were cracked and one side was gone. Im sure it makes my clutch pedal have to be pressed all the way to the floor. Still works but not by much. Any ideas where to find them little thingys.

 

is there any play inthe pedal before it starts to push the rod out of the slave

 

You cant just buy the plastic end cap thingys, you have to replace the either the slave or the whole system (which costs $200).

or make your own rod

 

So I made the push rod on the slave a little over an 1/8 in longer. I can now feel the range of the clutch fork bottom out before the pedal makes it all the way to the floor. However no change in performance. Still will not let me into any gear etc. I think I am gonna pull everything out and take a look at the all the clutch parts and see if there is anything visibly wrong. Has anyone ever heard of the clutch fork getting a crack??? Cant think of many more things that would give these symptoms.

 

"is there any play inthe pedal before it starts to push the rod out of the slave"

I am not sure about this. I dont think so but I will pay better attention when I get home tonight.

 

How far off the floor does the fork bottom out? The only thing that it should bottom out on the distance the pressure plate moves. I shortened mine to where it wouldn't bottom out on anything, I cut mine to 1/8 longer then rounded the ends so i was like 1/16th or so shorter.

But since that happen, i have a feeling its the pressure plate that is bad or pilot bearing is cocked in the hole. Or even that the clutch isnt centered. Something isnt letting the front of the trans slow down when you push the clutch

 

So I have everything pulled out and everything appears to be in brand new condition (considering I put it in a year ago). Just a couple of hot spots from the clutch disk riding like it has. Is the pilot bearing becoming crooked a common problem? I did have to install the bushing that it sits in when I put the engine in (since it was out of an automatic). I made sure it was straight at the time and it worked great for a year. Has anyone ever had it get cocked all of a sudden?

 

replace it

 

you're not supposed to machine the flywheel on a jeep 4.0L when you replace the clutch.
apparently, jeep uses a contoured flywheel surface. you don't want to resurface it or the clutch won't disengage properly.

i have replaced both my tj clutches with centerforce clutches and it has an important note inside the directions to NOT resurface/machine the flywheel.

i found this http://www.scribd.com/doc/27977639/1...nual-06-Clutch