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Clunking/vibration

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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 09:04 PM
  #1  
ZINGGG's Avatar
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From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Default Clunking/vibration

Ever since I got my 96 5 or so months ago (AW4, NP231) I've had a clunking at initial takeoff (between 0 and 10 mph). But once I get to a higher speed, it goes away. The harder I step on the gas from a stop, the louder, more apparent the noise is.

After further investigation (I was crouching on the ground a few yards away while a buddy was driving and stepping on the gas), I found that my entire transmission/transfer case/driveshafts had up/down play. The harder my buddy stepped on the gas, the more everything would move.

Now, I suspect the tranny mount is bad, as I would assume it wouldn't have this movement if it was in good shape. However, I have a 5" lift with no tcase drop or sye. Doing an sye/driveshaft is on my to do list, as I know it would help with vibrations. But I'm just wondering if a bad tranny mount would cause this initial movement on takeoff
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #2  
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From: Johnsonburg, Pa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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Well you have the same symptoms i have. took it to mechanic today and said that my pinion bearing was bad in the front differential that made it bounce causing the noise. said my best bet was a new axle which i am gonna do because apparently by the time becomes that loud that it has messed with ring and pinion gears. just saying what i heard but it sounds like what i have
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
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Hmmm... If you really need a new axle, I'd hit up the junkyard if I were you. Or, upgrade the ring and pinion since you have to replace! Hope you're not buying a brand new one though.

That is not my case at all though. I went to change my differential fluid a month or so back and checked for play in the ring and there was none, everything was tight and no shavings in the fluid
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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From: Johnsonburg, Pa
Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0L I6
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Yeah I am getting complete knuckle to Knuckle for150 just have to redo do it and put it in 200-250 total investment
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 12:43 PM
  #5  
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From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
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That's not a bad price at all if you're having a mechanic do it. I could imagine it would be a lot more expensive at the local Goodyear, etc.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 10:35 AM
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Hi, I am having this same problem, changed wheel bearing and U joint on front driver's side, but clunking remains.

I see that this thread is several months old, so I was wondering how you guys resolved this.

Also is it better to just replace whole axle or try to fix the front diff? How hard is a diff rebuild?

Thanks.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 02:39 PM
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From: Seal Beach, CA
Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
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Originally Posted by adgmobile
Hi, I am having this same problem, changed wheel bearing and U joint on front driver's side, but clunking remains.

I see that this thread is several months old, so I was wondering how you guys resolved this.

Also is it better to just replace whole axle or try to fix the front diff? How hard is a diff rebuild?

Thanks.
Check your transmission mount. Check your u-joints. Check everything in the drivetrain (grab driveshafts and try and shake them. There should not be any play)

I put in a polyurethane transmission mount and transfer case drop and that clunking is gone.

And you don't need to replace the whole axle (unless you plan on upgrading to a better one). A front axle rebuild kit would cost you under $100 (not including installation of it) so that's what I would do if I were you
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