I'm looking at 4.5'' Long Arm kits for my 1997 XJ. The idea is to do it right the first time. I'm debating between the two following lifts as they seem to be the highest quality kits

Rubicon Express: http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Jeep/X...px?part=RE6130

Clayton: http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id=113

I really don't want to go bigger, because I'm not planning on rock crawling, but I DO want the benefits of flex offered by a long arm system. Yes, I know I'll have to do SYE and all that crap too...man, this'll cost $$$ yay for ramen.

anyways, it seems the major difference between the two is between

a) welding vs bolt on
b) $2,000 for RE kit (including shocks) vs $2,400 (including shocks) DOES NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING
c) some mixed reviews (RE) vs ONLY good reviews (Clayton)

What would YOU purchase? man, a lift alone is going to cost around $4K since I don't know how to weld (Clayton) and the RE would cost more too. Then there's the issue of bigger tires...this whole thing sounds fishy... ha ha

 

There is one thing that I noticed on the Clayton kit I don't like. Wedge shims. I personally prefer to stay away from them because sometimes under hard use the axle can work loose and then there end up being issues with the spring pads on the axles.

 

Clayton uses RE springs IIRC, so no difference there. There will be no difference in flex from LA to SA kits... the benefit is in the ride quality. Clayton's kit is really nice and he's a good guy. Since you wont be on the rocks theres not reason to go TNT and get the beefy bellypan, but you can get the clayton belly skid later on if you want. If you dont wanna coin the extra grand for LAs, get the RE kit and get drop brackets.

I dont think you need to weld anything on clayton's kit.

 

Those are needed to maintain proper pinion angle with a SYE and double cardon driveshaft when you lift a jeep... how are they gonna move when theyre held in place by not only the centering pins but u bolts and the weight of the vehicle?

 

Thanks, keep in mind I'm still a n00b when it comes to modding the XJ. I can fix it stock, but the RE seems like it could be a kit I could do over a weekend or two at home, while the Clayton would have to be professionally done...

 

by looking at it the x-member looks to bolt right in place of stock, maybe clayton recommends the sides being welded, but you can drive your jeep to a welder and have him lay it on for probably less than 50 bucks. youre touching all the same bolts on both kits. the ride will be MUCH better with LAs, youll be ~5" with either kit.

 

I'm not planning on doing any SERIOUS wheeling, but eventually my goal will be to run the Rubicon trail. So my guess would be that this setup will get me through eh?

It's go big like this, or go for a 3.5 RE kit and save some dough.

 

ive seen the rubicon done (pics, not in real life ) with people on 33s and even 32s (with nice body damage). 33s/35s are the min for that i'd say, some would say 35s minimum. you could always get the re 3.5 now, run 31s, then save up for 35s and axle upgrades+gears, then buy a 1" shackle out back and 1" spacer (or new coils) up front to get you up to 4.5-5" to run 35s.

 

might as well get 4.5 to start with....and tires/sye/gears...jeeze..it's gonna take a long time just to purchase parts to sit in my garage! - but the Rubicon is like 10 years away.

I'm planning local camping and wheeling and technically could run a 3.5 SA kit no problem...but if I'd upgrade down the road, just do it right the first time, right?

 

i'm running 33s on short arms (3") and love the setup on and off road. but it IS more money to go from one setup to another. if i had to go back i'd "do it once and right" first.

 

The debate seems to have changed from RE vs Clayton to Short vs Long arms. I personally would get the RE if I was going to drive it much on road and the Clayton if it was going to be predominantly an off road truck. I think the Clayton is a tad more Heavy Duty and thus a tad less ride quality. JMHO.

 

How so? His coils are probably the same as RE's and his leafs are better. He uses the same rubber on one end and hard joint on the other design in his arms that RE does, a better trackbar than the RE kit (which uses the RE1600, the HD is an option), and JKS discos.

 

if anything the clayton kit will ride nicer due to the fact his longarms hang down a tad lower.

cant go wrong with either kit. you will see practically the same performance out of each.

tnt has a bit more clearance and clayton has a bit better control arm angle

 

I have used wedge shims. Before we get in a big row, I said heavy use. If you are just mall crawling no problem. But if you start doing things like catching air and using momentum to get you through tough stuff or just plain heavy on the skinny pedal, then having that center bolt in there at an angle can cause the center bolt or the spring pad to be compromised. What happens is that since the spring pad is at an angle compared to the U bolts, there is a side that is tight and one that is loose. eventually the pad will move to the loose side. If you are going to change the pinion angle that much, it is far better to find a friend with an angle grinder and welder. Cut the welds, rotate the axle and reweld the pads. It doesn't take that long to do and is well worth the time.

 

i run shims

not sure what you consider heavy use, but i have had zero issues.