Clacking noise?
I developed a clacking noise comming from either in the trans. or in the lower half. I could not pin point where the noise is comming from.
It only does this clacking when I'm sitting idle or rev at idle. It sounds worse when just sitting in reverse. This sound is driving me nuts.
Could I possibly have a torqe converter bolt loose.
I'm all out of ideas
It only does this clacking when I'm sitting idle or rev at idle. It sounds worse when just sitting in reverse. This sound is driving me nuts.
Could I possibly have a torqe converter bolt loose.
I'm all out of ideas
CF Veteran


Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,188
Likes: 6
From: Bristol,Pa
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I developed a clacking noise comming from either in the trans. or in the lower half. I could not pin point where the noise is comming from.
It only does this clacking when I'm sitting idle or rev at idle. It sounds worse when just sitting in reverse. This sound is driving me nuts.
Could I possibly have a torqe converter bolt loose.
I'm all out of ideas
It only does this clacking when I'm sitting idle or rev at idle. It sounds worse when just sitting in reverse. This sound is driving me nuts.
Could I possibly have a torqe converter bolt loose.
I'm all out of ideas
Tap on the catalytic convertor, see if you have a loose heat shield or fragments inside rattling.
Renix Super Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 19
From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Transmission mount is probably shot. Mine was driving my wife nuts so I changed it and the noise went away. Never really bothered me. Mine was real bad after changing to poly motor mounts.
Renix Super Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 19
From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
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Trans. mount was good.
I did have 1 torque converter bolt slightly finger loose.
Tightened it and still makes the same sound. Like a rapid and consistant clack.
I would guess my next bet would be to check the lower half. Not sure if the crankshaft is slightly bent and causing the piston to slap, or a rod is bent.
I don't understand what would make that noise at idle and coasting. Why would it not do it while accelerating.
Could something in the trans do that?
I've ran out of ideas at this point.
I did have 1 torque converter bolt slightly finger loose.
Tightened it and still makes the same sound. Like a rapid and consistant clack.
I would guess my next bet would be to check the lower half. Not sure if the crankshaft is slightly bent and causing the piston to slap, or a rod is bent.
I don't understand what would make that noise at idle and coasting. Why would it not do it while accelerating.
Could something in the trans do that?
I've ran out of ideas at this point.
Renix Super Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 19
From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Next thing I would check is the flex plate for cracks. They can make a noise that sounds like a rod knocking.
You need a good pry bar and a strong flashlight or drop light. Rotate and check until you have looked all the way around it.
You need a good pry bar and a strong flashlight or drop light. Rotate and check until you have looked all the way around it.
She still does it!
A mecanic said it sounded like a crankshaft bearing.
Another one said could be a bent rod or lifter.
At this point I have a few options;
Check the lifters, then the rods if they are good then check the crankshaft bearings.
"will I have to pull the motor or can I access the bearings through the oil pan?"
How difficult is this to do?
Or quit dumping money in this motor and just buying a new turn-key?
Where can I get a good deal on one that you guys stand by?
Thanks for your time and patience.
A mecanic said it sounded like a crankshaft bearing.
Another one said could be a bent rod or lifter.
At this point I have a few options;
Check the lifters, then the rods if they are good then check the crankshaft bearings.
"will I have to pull the motor or can I access the bearings through the oil pan?"
How difficult is this to do?
Or quit dumping money in this motor and just buying a new turn-key?
Where can I get a good deal on one that you guys stand by?
Thanks for your time and patience.
CF Veteran


Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,188
Likes: 6
From: Bristol,Pa
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Nebraska.. what year and mileage?
You can replace the crank bearings by dropping the oilpan, this is done easier if you have a lift making clearance to get the pan out of the way. Take it to a few more shops asking for a diagnosis and quote.. this should give you a better idea of the problem. Ask around for a reputable honest shop.
I went with Jasper when i bought a 4.0L for my old 88, oil pump went at 28K and i had a replacement engine in 10 days. They paid for the install as well. I highly recommend them.
You can replace the crank bearings by dropping the oilpan, this is done easier if you have a lift making clearance to get the pan out of the way. Take it to a few more shops asking for a diagnosis and quote.. this should give you a better idea of the problem. Ask around for a reputable honest shop.
I went with Jasper when i bought a 4.0L for my old 88, oil pump went at 28K and i had a replacement engine in 10 days. They paid for the install as well. I highly recommend them.
she is a 93 with 220,000.
The guy I bought it off of said the motor only had 75,000 or so. But, he could have been blowing smoke up my tail pipe just to sell it.
I was looking at Jasper and it sounds good to me. I'm checking with a few machine shops about more prices.
What did you pay for your 4.0?
The guy I bought it off of said the motor only had 75,000 or so. But, he could have been blowing smoke up my tail pipe just to sell it.
I was looking at Jasper and it sounds good to me. I'm checking with a few machine shops about more prices.
What did you pay for your 4.0?


