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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Yeah...um, whoever told you that is completely wrong.
I've got an ARB and there is not repeated button pushing.
1 button activates the compressor, 1 button activates the locker.
Once both are pressed, your completely locked until you turn off the switch, snap an axle, or rip off an airline.
Being that you have no first hand experience, maybe you think someone told you this, but you just heard incorrectly.
My hearing and my memory are outstanding. I highly doubt I heard wrong. I think it's worth pointing out that anything requiring compressed air to hold it in place is prone to fail. Air lines and seals leak. Why do you think semi trucks use air to turn the brakes OFF instead of ON? because air fails. So for those of you that love your ARB, which cost what, $800 plus? More power to you. For my money an auto locker in the back is adequate. Maybe a mechanically operated selectable in front, but that depends on where you try to go with the Jeep too.
My hearing and my memory are outstanding. I highly doubt I heard wrong. I think it's worth pointing out that anything requiring compressed air to hold it in place is prone to fail. Air lines and seals leak. Why do you think semi trucks use air to turn the brakes OFF instead of ON? because air fails. So for those of you that love your ARB, which cost what, $800 plus? More power to you. For my money an auto locker in the back is adequate. Maybe a mechanically operated selectable in front, but that depends on where you try to go with the Jeep too.
Prone to failure? Not really. I've ran an arb without issues, many customers without issues, and my boss has had the same arb for over 15 years.
You're clearly not familiar with arb's
For street driveability and sheer strength... the arb is miles ahead of ANY auto locker.
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
Originally Posted by N20jeep
Prone to failure? Not really. I've ran an arb without issues, many customers without issues, and my boss has had the same arb for over 15 years.
You're clearly not familiar with arb's
For street driveability and sheer strength... the arb is miles ahead of ANY auto locker.
now if you have the money, more power to you. but if you just want a locker, dont mind the little harshness of the streetablility, and a little backlash feel then go with the Detroit locker. get the new detroit soft locker, i heard they are nice. i have a detroit locker in the back and love it. i drive on the street every day to work, then wheel on the weekends (and sometimes on the way home from work).
I have no firsthand experience, I was just told that when the locker is actually working you have to keep hitting the button to make both tires spin. Maybe you only thought yours was locked all day?
Originally Posted by desertdog
My hearing and my memory are outstanding. I highly doubt I heard wrong. I think it's worth pointing out that anything requiring compressed air to hold it in place is prone to fail. Air lines and seals leak. Why do you think semi trucks use air to turn the brakes OFF instead of ON? because air fails. So for those of you that love your ARB, which cost what, $800 plus? More power to you. For my money an auto locker in the back is adequate. Maybe a mechanically operated selectable in front, but that depends on where you try to go with the Jeep too.
Really? I guess ARB has survived by making products that are prone to failure, then?
Do you believe everything you hear? Especially with something you admitted to having NO first hand experience with?
Do you even know what having a locked front or rear is like??? You don't "think" you're locked in. You KNOW.
So how the hell are you criticizing something you have NO firsthand experience with?
Cost difference?
You keep your auto locker in the rear that cost you X amount less. Then when you are buying new rubber for your rears exponentially more than I am because I've got a more advanced, better system, we can talk about how much more my ARB is.
Try thinking of the long run.
Oh, and before you start 'bashing' a product you clearly know nothing about...learn how it functions first.
The ARB system uses a compressor and small tank, very similar to a setup in your garage. Once the reserve tank reaches a certain pressure, the compressor stops. Even if you do manage to put a small hole in the cheap air line, or you mess up a seal and have a slight leak, the compressor and tank will more than compensate giving you the full lock you need.
Originally Posted by N20jeep
Prone to failure? Not really. I've ran an arb without issues, many customers without issues, and my boss has had the same arb for over 15 years.
You're clearly not familiar with arb's
For street driveability and sheer strength... the arb is miles ahead of ANY auto locker.
My ARB has been in the truck for YEARS. Factory parts are still in there and are working correctly.
Originally Posted by trans_am7935
if you just want a locker, dont mind the little harshness of the streetablility, and a little backlash feel then go with the Detroit locker. get the new detroit soft locker, i heard they are nice. i have a detroit locker in the back and love it. i drive on the street every day to work, then wheel on the weekends (and sometimes on the way home from work).
Don't forget the unpredictability in wet or snowy/icy roads. Oh, and premature tire wear.
For those of you having issues with price, there was a front ARB locker for sale a month or so ago for $250.
Last edited by Gee oh Dee; Mar 9, 2011 at 12:00 PM.
chill out, gee. I was never "bashing" the arb. I suspect it's one of the best airlockers on the market. i was told by someone who had one that wouldn't stay locked, apparently. probably a bad air leak. and, repeating that information was an un-informed opinion. however, i am sticking to my guns regarding reliability of an air system vs mechanical. i'll take an OX over ARB 10 times out of ten. and for us poor bastards, an auto locker in the rear is usually a pretty good compromise. is everybody happy now?
T-Bus:
It is true that the dana 44 has 30 spline shafts, while the 8.25 has 29 splines, but the shaft diameter difference is 1.31 for the d44 while the 8.25 is 1.21 or a difference of .1. Buying the 1541H shafts more than make up for the .1 diameter difference and cost about 200.00 for the set.
A full carrier locker for the 8.25 replaces the weaker open carrier and still has stronger axle tubes, and the pinion and pinion bearings are .25 inches larger. So if you already have a Dana 44, keep it and upgrade it, if on the other hand you have a Chrysler 8.25 buying the 1541H shafts and a full carrier type locker will be much cheaper and it will be as strong as a Dana 44 or so close to as strong that it is not worth comment.
Do you mean a Full Carrier Spool when you say "full carrier type locker"? I haven't had any luck finding a full spool for the 8.25. I am planning on putting an 8.8 in it, unless I can find a full spool then I'd be willing to upgrade the 8.25
I ran my 99 Sport with the 8.25, 29 spline shafts, 4.10 gears, 32's with an Aussie in it for several years and never had a problem. I could not justify shelling out the extra time and money to pull a D44 out from a yard, rebuild it and swapping it out of my XJ when the 8.25 under it was just as good. Unless you are getting in to some heavy HP high RPM challenges, I see no need to get anything else. This was my DD and was well mannered on the road and kept up with many other rigs sporting D44's, 14 Bolt etc.
$450s shipped to your door is a pretty good price for a D44... but I'd go with the 8.25, should be plenty strong for your needs. I got my 97'+ 8.25 (29 spline) for $100 already pulled. I wasn't planning on upgrading until I saw it for sale, but figured it's cheap insurance.
Do you mean a Full Carrier Spool when you say "full carrier type locker"? I haven't had any luck finding a full spool for the 8.25. I am planning on putting an 8.8 in it, unless I can find a full spool then I'd be willing to upgrade the 8.25
full carrier type locker is like a detroit, ARB, or Ox, it replaces the the original carrier. and they dont make spools for 8.25s btw
Yeah...um, whoever told you that is completely wrong.
I've got an ARB and there is not repeated button pushing.
1 button activates the compressor, 1 button activates the locker.
Once both are pressed, your completely locked until you turn off the switch, snap an axle, or rip off an airline.
Being that you have no first hand experience, maybe you think someone told you this, but you just heard incorrectly.
I had a set of arbs in a jeep I had, they were an older style of button, the bottons broke and wouldnt stay on, so to actually turn on the compressor and lock the axles I had to hold down the buttons. eh at least it made for a but of fun wheeling, hot to make sure I was in the right gear then hold the buttons throught the obstacle, lol.
full carrier type locker is like a detroit, ARB, or Ox, it replaces the the original carrier. and they dont make spools for 8.25s btw
Yeah, I know they don't make spools for the 8.25 that's why I'm looking to upgrade.
OK - So if I leave the 8.25 in the rear, what front end should I use? I've been told by several people that the D30 front is Junk. Right now I'm stock as far as horsepower but I'm looking into building a stroked 4.0.
Last edited by Black_XJ; Nov 17, 2011 at 07:50 PM.
Good thread gents! I have a D35 and decided to go the C8.25 rout. I pulled the trigger on a junk yard 27 spline C8.25, picket up a 29 spline carrier, 4.56 gears, 29 spline Yukon ally shafts and a spartan lunch box locker. Gears are being installed this week and I hope to drop it this weekend.
