now put a lunchbox in it and be done. it's a fraction of the cost a selectable locker is, and in the rear it will be just fine. clicking around corners isn't the worst thing in the world. in my opinion....cuz i have the c 8.25 and that's exactly what i plan to do. selectable lockers in front, always. like an OX...you know when it's in, and it's a simple system. i don't really have anything good to say about air lockers. expensive, complicated, and you know they only stay locked for a few seconds? cmon.

i dont know who told you airlockers only stay locked for a few seconds, but they were misinformed or had an air leak in the system or a bad solenoid.

i used to lock my arb all day long, and only turn it off in tight corners.

Jeepguy, I guess since I've been doing this for over 35 years I would consider myself a serious wheeler. The Chrysler 8.25 will handle anything I would put under a Jeep Cherokee. If I wanted to go bigger or stronger I wouldn't mess with a Dana 44, I would go with at least a Dana 60 it would be cheaper and stronger than the upgraded Dana 44, and probably with a different rig, something with a frame.

It'll just click around corners? Well that's no problem at all, guess I'll go with auto lockers, didn't want to spend $800 for an ARB anyways (Don't see myself using it enough to justify $800 in a locker, $500 maybe) Mine's almost rust-free though...

I have a lock rite in my 98 and I can't even tell its there on pavement unless you kick it while turning, if you drive "normal" for most people, it still has great road manners. It does pop some in turns and at full lock you can hear it , but it still works great offroad! I have a detroit in my CJ and it chirps the tires everytime you turn and wears tires out way too fast.

First thing... congrats on post #1000

Also, if thats your rig in your avatar, nice!

Didn't mean to offend by the use of the term "serious"... sorry.

Although I agree with you in principle, I was referring my comments to the choice between the 8.25 and the D44. A D44 IS stronger if built and all the parts, including the diff itself, are bolt-on and can be done by anyone with even minimal experience and tools. Not so with any 8.25. Although its bolt-on, options are minimal unless they are custom. For most, an 8.25 (or 8.8) are plenty. For those that want more but don't need D60s, the D44 is a great option. Only a few that ever consider a 60 ever really need that much axle and a D44 or as you point out, an 8.25, will be more than sufficient.

I have a D30/D44 combo in my rig with both modded considerably. More than strong enough for whatever I'll throw at them and I have about $5k into both axles. I'm running 31s right now and am building to go to 35s so my axles will be ready for the changover when complete. My other rig is a YJ with RockJock 60s f&r and yes, I understand a D60 is WAY stronger than either of the above but its not even close to being bolt-on and virtually everything on a D60 will be custom (read expensive) compared to the above. That rig have over $11k just in axles.

My point is that the needs of strength are proportional to the wheeling style of the rig. Most rigs here are weekday DDs with an occasional weekend 1-5 rated trail ride thrown in. Some are more "serious" 8-10 rated trail rigs that see some very rough stuff regularly. Those usually need more "beef" than an 8.25 can provide and a D44 is just for them.

I love my 8.25 and unless I found a 44 for 100 bucks I will never put one under mine. the 8.25 is just a strong! yes it may not have the aftermarket support of the 44 but look at the 8.8 aftermarket. I've had people argue that the 8.8 is not as strong as the 44 even in built form that is BS. the 8.8 is what 99% of the mustangs have under them and I have Been around mustangs for a long time and when you have 600 HP and a 200 shot coming off the line and slicks and they ain't breaking a built 8.8 then I don't believe I will ever come close to that TQ with a stock or built 4.0

Well you could be right. I have no firsthand experience, I was just told that when the locker is actually working you have to keep hitting the button to make both tires spin. Maybe you only thought yours was locked all day?

sorry to hijack
yea that is a d35
notice how puny those axle tubings are?
those things flex mega on the trail and cause your shafts inside to bust
the other picture on this thread before my post is of a 8.25 notice how much beefier they look. thats one reason for their added srength. plus the shafts inside are bigger by 2 splines

nope.....i know it was locked all day. have to push the button to lock, and push to unlock. maybe who ever you heard this from didnt run the compressor all day? and kept turning it on and off? not how you are supposed to do it. i dont think they know how to use their air lockers.

i used to work in a custom offroad shop and installed a few arb's. they all work the same. hit them with air=LOCKED take the air away=UNLOCKED.

and you def KNOW when your front axle is locked in. your steering tells you so weather you like it or not!..........but this is a whole different thread.

jeepguy:
I have a d30/c8.25 combo I'm planning on running 34-36 inch tires. and do not foresee any problems. I have 4.88 gear sets with master install kits. For the front axle I have 4340 chrome molly shafts, shaft seals, and joints, and an Eaton E-locker.
For the rear I have 29 spline 1541H shafts, and a Detroit locker.
While you are correct that the d44 has more aftermarket support, I found everything I needed for the Chrysler 8.25 and it will handle the tire size I have chosen just fine, and I have just under 3000.00 in both my diffs.
As to Dana 60s yes they are more expensive if you buy them, but they are not that hard to build yourself and with 35 spline 1.50 diameter shafts you shouldn't need Chrome molly shafts.
As far as your Dana 44 being stronger than my Chrysler 8.25 maybe, but most of the Dana 44s I've seen break wasn't axle shafts, it was R & P because of the small 1.37 diameter pinion shaft, the 8.25s pinion is 1.62 diameter, same as a Dana 60.
Yes, that is my Blazer thanks. That photo was taken on the Z corners, on the Moab Rim trail.

the 44 is a 30 spline and the late model 8.25 is a 29 so i dont see why youd need to spend the extra for the 44

theres more to strength than just spline count.

the 44 has bigger shafts, higher brake strength rating, stronger carrier, much larger aftermarket.

T-Bus:
It is true that the dana 44 has 30 spline shafts, while the 8.25 has 29 splines, but the shaft diameter difference is 1.31 for the d44 while the 8.25 is 1.21 or a difference of .1. Buying the 1541H shafts more than make up for the .1 diameter difference and cost about 200.00 for the set.
A full carrier locker for the 8.25 replaces the weaker open carrier and still has stronger axle tubes, and the pinion and pinion bearings are .25 inches larger. So if you already have a Dana 44, keep it and upgrade it, if on the other hand you have a Chrysler 8.25 buying the 1541H shafts and a full carrier type locker will be much cheaper and it will be as strong as a Dana 44 or so close to as strong that it is not worth comment.

Yeah...um, whoever told you that is completely wrong.

I've got an ARB and there is not repeated button pushing.

1 button activates the compressor, 1 button activates the locker.

Once both are pressed, your completely locked until you turn off the switch, snap an axle, or rip off an airline.

Being that you have no first hand experience, maybe you think someone told you this, but you just heard incorrectly.