I do not have an owner's manual for my 2000 Cherokee Sport (with an auto tranny and the 4.0l I6) but I've read the max weight I can tow is 2,000lbs. GVWR. Is that accurate?

I ask because the previous owner has installed a tow hitch on the back. Pic is below.



It's bolted up pretty robustly to the frame. The wiring harness oddly is sticking out where the spare tire mounts.

Now, I've read that factory installed towing packages typically have a beefier alternator and transmission? I'm guessing my Jeep doesn't have that. So how much could I tow with this? And how would I go about moving that wiring harness down to around the hitch, where it belongs?

I'm wanting to get a small pop-up tent or camper trailer. If anyone has done this or is currently doing this, I'd love to hear about the pros and cons!

Thanks!

 

I wouldn't go any bigger than a 16" fishing bout IMHO
Plus I would add a external tranny cooler

 

It's technically rated for 5000 lbs GWVR, but XJs got seriously over rated on towing capacity. Cherokees are just too light to control anything that heavy unless you're extremely experienced with towing.

Personally I wouldn't suggest towing more than 3000 lbs in an XJ.

 

As others have stated the XJ is rated to tow 5,000 lbs. but that is pushing things since the XJ only weighs 3,000-3,500 lbs.

The only thing the towing package on the XJ came with is a transmission cooler, hitch and wiring, they also generally came with the Chrysler 8.25" (or D44 on 90 and older models) rear-axle but you could get the Chrysler 8.25" without the towing package. If you don't have a transmission cooler you should add one (and make sure the fluid is fresh too) before towing, I would recommend a B&M 70264 for the XJ.

It looks like that hitch is one of those one-size fits all universal ones, I personally don't like those and would probably replace it with one actually made for the vehicle, but it isn't absolutely necessary as long as it was assembled correctly (I personally hate trusting that a previous owner did something correctly).

It is also recommended to run 85w140 in the rear diff rather than the usual 75w90 when towing.

 

I have no idea what an external transmission cooler is. LOL Is that something I, Joe Average, can do...or something for a mechanic? Just looked up the one you recommended.....so it's like a radiator for tranny fluid? Where does it mount? And could you run 85w140 ALL the time?

Oh, and stupid question for the day.....how can you tell what axle you have?

And I'd guess most pop-up tent trailers or a small (it'd just be for 2-4 people, max) would be under 3K pounds. I'm going to stick with the 2K number I saw just to be safe.

 

The trans cooler is like a mini-radiator for the transmission. Usually it is mounted behind the grill (in front of the rad and AC condenser) and is plumbed in line with the factory integral transmission cooler ( a heat exchanger inside of the radiator). You will see 2 lines/hoses that connect to the driver-side rad tank these are for the trans cooler, installation is fairly easy and most coolers come with good instructions, though if you're unsure about doing it yourself most shops will only charge about $100 (plus parts) to put one in.

Yes you can run 85w140 all the time.

The easiest way is to look at the cover:



Most pop-ups are fairly light, many are intended to be able to be towed with a car and most cars only have a 1,500lb. tow rating.

 

OOooo...that pic is most helpful! I'm about 99.9% sure I've got the 8.25.

 

This should also help. Dana 35's are completely oval, while the Chrysler 8.25" has flat "squared off" flanges on the top and bottom that extend beyond the diff cover. Also note the larger diameter axle tubes on the Chrysler 8.25". The Chrysler 8.25" is the stronger of the two axles (it is also the axle used in Dodge Durangos, Dakotas, and some older Rams) but either one should be able to handle a 2,000-3,000 pop-up.

Chrysler 8.25":







Dana 35:

 

As stated above, the Cherokee is a little over rated in the towing department. But, With proper driving, it can tow wayyy more safely.
After tire, brake and axle upgrade (Im pretty hard core pulling my trees out of the bush), I've been towing my trailer for firewood deliveries for the last 3 years almost every weekend, most times over a 3 hours drive (the return trip takes 2). On the scale, it tops at 7000lbs.
When I take it down to 5000lbs for smaller deliveries (one cord with trailer) its easy to pull and stop.
Remember speed kills. When overloaded like this, drive as if the road was covered with snow. 2500rpm is best gas mileage when working that hard.

 

It's definitely the Chrysler one.

Thanks guys! I'll look into the radiator cooler gizmo.

 

My 97 with 32's and 4.56 runs and pulls strong. but today moving my big snap-on tool box with a nice size lawn/utility trailer was a stuggle. Pulled ok around town, but highway was bad, have to maintain 60 on inclines, and really took a hit on a big hill, slowed down alot. Biggest problem is the cooling. I have trans and P/S coolers, Taurus E-Fan, and hood vent and temps were still rising running those inclines

 

I was wondering what it'd be like on hills. I just got back from taking the Jeep out west. Had some pretty serious heating issues going through Rabbit Ears Pass (I think that's the name) out of Steamboat Springs. Stopped in Granby, CO to have it looked at. Head gasket and all was fine but it was apparent that I should NOT take the previous owner's word for it that all the fluids were checked/changed/topped off. Coolant looked like muddy pond water. Had it flushed, new thermostat put in, etc. etc. Cooling issues solved.

So I'm guessing "p/s coolers" is for power steering??? I had no idea it even gets hot. And what is a Taurus E-fan. I'm assuming it's something off a Ford? LOL

 

P/S cooler is indeed for power steering. The Taurus electric fan upgrade involves replacing your stock cooling fans with the fan off of a certain year Taurus, they move a LOT of air. If you replace the clutch fan you gain a few HP back.

HOWEVER, for your purposes of a small camping trailer, stock is fine. Make sure you do PROPER maintenance on your cooling system (regular wear components, such as water pump, thermostat, coolant flush, fan clutch), keep it out of Overdrive when climbing hills, and use the heavier oil in the rear diff as suggested.

A stock XJ with a little 1000 lb trailer is fine. No need for a new axle, cooler, etc.

 

Got a link for the Taurus mod? I may like to try that.

Ooof, never mind. Found one write-up. I can do basic bolt on stuff, but this involves fabbing up a cover for the fan, etc. doesn't it?

 

Its not hard, just trimming plastic till it fits good. Ill take a pic of mine tomorrow