If you have spark, the CPS is working.

Have you ever visited my website?

 

Yes. It's amazing. I've been following the tips as closely as possible. MAP sensor should be here tomorrow, so I'm sitting on my hands til then in order to eliminate that possibility at least.

 

My ECU thinks we are with the rebel alliance on the ice planet Hoth when i try to start it.

 

if it "wants" to start and has spark, what happens when you spray Ether into it ?

 

We aren't?

 

New MAP sensor is in. Sounds like it wants to start SO bad. More so than before, but it just smells like flood central. Choked like a dog on a bone. Feel like it's hitting more regularly than before I replaced the faulty MAP sensor, but it still won't start. Something mechanical is stuck and it's just not getting enough O2. Catalytic converter may be clogged with shmeg and the air just can't flow through then system like it should. Maybe I should cut it off with the sawzall or something. Its right there. Floods every time. I can hear the fuel pump priming but something is restricting air to the cylinders. It's dying to start. Not trying to laugh, but at this point seems like something simple and overlooked. My whole yard smells like gasoline.

 

If it is choking on startup, I would check the fuel pressure. If it is too high, it will do that

 

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Cam_Position_Sensor_and_Sync_Pulse_Stator.htm

RENIX TEST PROCEDURE

1. Insert + voltmeter lead into BLUE wire at distributor connector.
2. Insert negative - lead into Gray W/trace wire at dist connector.
3. Set voltmeter to 15vac, turn key on & should show approximately 5.0volts.
4. If there is no voltage present - double check the backprobed leads to ensure good contact.
5. If there is STILL no voltage present; the Factory Service Manual says you need to "Perform vehicle test using DRB II tester. I don't have one. You don't either.
6. At this point, If you DO have voltage then remove / disconnect the ECU (computer).
7. Check continuity between the Blue wire and C-16 at the ECU. - If no continuity: repair harness wire.
8. Check continuity between Gray W/trace and pin C-5 at the ECU. - If no continuity: repair harness wire.
9. Check continuity between Black wire and "ground". - If no continuity: repair harness wire.
10. While observing analog voltmeter (That's one with a needle, folks! Your average digital meter won't show this...) crank engine & voltmeter needle should fluctuate back & forth while engine is cranking over. This confirms stator in distributor is 'pulsing' correctly and sending signal out for ECU.
11. If there is no sync pulse you will have to replace the stator by removing and dissassembling the "distributor" following the service manual procedure. * - Helpful Hint: Before pulling your distributor... "bump" the engine until the rotor is pointing straight forward and aligned with the side of the engine. That way you'll know where the rotor needs to end up pointing after reassembly.

 

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but I assume if the pressure is too high that would mean the regulator is not working properly. i did remove the injectors and cleaned them right after the flooding incident. There is no leakage on the rail but it seems like if the pressure is adequate it would not still prime every time I turned the ignition to run.

 

This may be a dumb question, but should I be getting a voltage reading on the injector connector pin with key in 'ON' position? I've read that one should read '0' (the ground) and the other should read '12'. I checked it with my meter and the key 'ON' and I got no voltage to either contact.

 

To my understanding, the system arms all injectors with a constant voltage and the ECM pulses a ground signal to each one per the normal firing order.

 

Yeah. That's what I thought as well. I just checked the first two injectors and I got a reading of .01 volts on the hot pin with the connector unplugged and the key in the 'ON' position. Could this be caused by a bad ASD relay. That could be the issue I guess. I've put in a different ECU from an 89 model. The old one was flooded out so my first guess when I started trying to get it back running was the original ECU pretty much had to be bad. Maybe I should put the old one back in and then check the injector plug again.

 

A bad ASD relay would do it. Swap relays and/or measure for voltage at the socket.

 

Actually, I don't think an 87 has an ASD relay. I looked at the manual and it says nothing about it. Must receive voltage from the cam sensor. I need to investigate that now I guess.

 

Ah, I missed that it was an 87. The Renix computer controls the positive side of the injectors, and they share a common ground. So your .01 volts is correct, and shows a reasonable good ground.