k so new lifters it is...if i don't buy this other jeep, if i do then i will probably just sell it as is.

any one in the new mexico are looking for a cherokee???just wanna get what i paid which is 450, i am hoping all it needs is new lifters and a fuel pump cleaning??

decided to just stick with my jeep..with everything i have in my garage i can sell i can probably fix my jeep and lift it so there really is no point in buying the other one.

So new question..is there any specific brand lifter you guys recomend going with?? also what else should i replace?? i THINK my rockers and and pivots are fine i am probably going to replace the pushrods..anything else anyone can think of??

i cant think of anything else i usually replace push rods with lifters .sounds like your on the right track

sweet i AM learning something...lol i will start a build thread once i get some stuff i have for sale sold.

glad i could help what kinda stuff you got for sale

oh just some crap i don't need some aftermarket rims for an older jetta or possibly an other VW some ford ranger rims and tires about 30% tread and an infinity kappa perfect 12.1 12" subwoofer with enclosure

Stock replacement? Whatever you can find. Fed/Mogul is good, and you can't find TRW anymore anyhow. HT-2011 should be the part (it's a common AMC and ChryCo lifter.)

Rhoads are excellent, and you may even note a slight performance benefit there as well. I'm fairly sure that Roads' part number will be some variation on HT-2011 as well.

There's supposed to be a "composite foot" brand lifter out there that does offer a part for the AMC six, but I've yet to collect reports from the field, nor have I tried them myself. Ergo, I'm not going to recommend them (but if you want to find and try them, let me know how they work!)

I have extensive experience with Federal/Mogul internals, and favour them (particularly in the absence of TRW. I thing F/M grew out of TRW anyhow.) I've also used Rhoads in several performance buildups of various engines, and will highly recommend them as well.

NB: Do not use API Service SM engine oil without adding anti-scuff additive - GM's EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) seems to be the preferred version - at every oil change! API Service SM oil lacks the organometallic anti-scuff additives needed for protection of the tappet feet and camshaft lobes in conventional flat-tappet engines, and not having the stuff will lead to premature failure! In fact, you especially don't want to use API SM oil for break-in, or you'll fail on running the damned thing in!

If you're not overhauling the engine, you can use an abbreviated run-in procedure - simply start the engine, and keep it at a varying "high idle" condition (typically 2,500-4,000 rpm) for twenty to thirty minutes. If you have rocker arm oil deflectors, you can run the engine with the rocker cover off to make sure the pushrods are rotating (which is caused by the tappets themselves rotating, which is important to component longevity,) and spin the pushrods by hand if they need encouraging (the causal relationship can go both ways.)

Shut down, change the engine oil while hot, and return to normal service. Install the rocker cover if you were able to run without it during run-in.

after 25 post you can star a thread in the for sale section i dont think it has to be strickly cherokee related things

thanks man lots of good info i appreciate it, i will look into those brands i was just using rock auto.com and buying the cheapest parts, but if thats not in my best interest..please let me know, i want my jeep back together since i have never driven it but i am not going to go cheap if im just going to be tearing it down again..i can handle seeing it sitting in my garage for a little while longer. I want to do a full rebuildl, but i really just can't afford it. It has over 200,000 miles on it and was abused previously so i can guess its probably going to need to be rebuilt eventually, but i pretty much just want it to hold together until i can afford to do a 4.0 HO swap or a stroker. I would keep my regular old 4.0 but from what i have been told there is pretty much NOTHING you can do to pull more power out of them.

5-90, what do you think of diesel oil? Most have 1000-1300 PPM zinc in them. Seems like a cheaper alternative to the ZDDP additives.
Im gonna be running Motorcraft Super Duty Diesel oil in mine next change..

If you took those lifters out for any reason at all do yourself a favor and replace them with new ones. You mentioned that you are cleaning them up however you must make sure that you put them back in the same places that you took them out of. Go new they are not that expensive!

no they aren't i am just buying a house and didn't want to have to borrow/rent a trailer to get my jeep to my new house so i was trying not to have to buy new ones, like i stated above i didn't keep track of where they went so they will be getting replaced.

Most Diesel-rated oil (current spec is API CJ-4, I believe,) is also rated API SL.

And, there have been numbers (consistently good!) reports from the field on the use of Rotella T in flat-tappet engines in general.

Considering the spring pressures involved in Diesel engines, the high levels of ZDDP are likely to remain necessary - even with the eventual changeover to roller tappet valvetrains. (After all, a "roller camshaft" still has to deal with a polished pivot at the rocker fulcrum and a flat face on the valve tip and rocker tip - still loads of friction there!)

A good parts house will keep API CJ-4/SL and API SM oil on the shelf - just like they'll usually have NLGI GL-3 and NLGI GL-5 oils (while the API Service Specs are reverse-compatible through API SL and API CJ-4, the NLGI Service Specs are not.) A chain store likely will not - so you'll have to do some digging.

The confusion is likely to arise with synthetics - just as some "performance synthetic" NLGI GL-5 gear oils are actually safe for use with yellow metals (RedLine and Amsoil in particular, but check manufacturer literature,) some bright boy in a major petrochem lab somewhere will come up with an effective antiscuff additive that won't poison catalyst beds - like organometallic salts do. I'm inclined to think it will be an enhancement to the ash content of engine oil (yes, common ash is added as an anti-wear additive as well. You'd be surprised to see what gets added...) So, it's only a matter of time, I think, before we start seeing API CJ- specs being put back on the engine oil bottles - probably the next-gen engine oil will say "API Service SN/CK" because they've finally made it work.

But, if you want to kvetch at someone for screwing with our engine oil, go after the EPA - it's their fault.

I know that my question is probably out of order, but the thread seems to have run its course, so I'll use it to ask 5-90 a question which he seems knowledgeable enough to answer.

My car is an 1994 Ford Aspire. I changed the oil in it yesterday and after the change the tappet noise was suddenly extreme. The new oil was the same as the oil that had been in the car, Motorcraft 5W30 Synthetic Blend. I happened to have kept one of the old bottles and when I compared it to the bottle which the new oil came in, there was what may or may not be a significant difference. The old oil that had no tappet noise was labeled "API SERVICE SN". The new oil that makes the engine sound like a bucket of bolts rattling was labeled "API SERVICE SM".

When I put both of those terms together in Google I got only two hits, an Amsoil catalog and 5-90's post with the above quote.

When I saw that the difference in these two ratings was related to the performance of the valve system I thought I should ask him whether my problem with API SM oil could be caused by the absense of the anti-scuff additive mentioned.

It may be significant that my engine has rollers and hydraulic lifters. I'll leave that up to you to tell me. Up until I read your comment I thought anything on the shelf would work in any engine, more or less. I still can't believe they would be able to sell anything which would degrade engine preformance to the extent this has mine.

Any comment will be greatly appreciated.

John Gunn
Coronado, CA

Quick after thought: What are the possibilities that the new bottles, labeled SM, were actually filled with 5W20 oil by mistake?