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Cherokee brake bleed pattern

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Old Sep 17, 2015 | 03:23 PM
  #16  
WyoCherokee's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,364
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From: Dont Colorado Wyoming
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by mithuth
what the hell, I'll 3rd this and add:

It's easiest if you have someone to pump the brakes 2-3x and hold while you open the valve and close it when he hollers stop when the pedal hits the floor. Then he can top off the reservoir while you roll over to the next brake. Also using a small tube running into a container to catch the fluid from the valve will save you a LOT of clean up.
I always have the guy in the cab notify me when he is 3/4 to the floor, so that by the time he hits the floor, the valve is tight and you dont lose any positive pressure when you bottom out. There is always that lag between them saying "floor" and you cranking it shut. Never used a vacuum bleeder.
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Old Sep 18, 2015 | 10:59 AM
  #17  
weswins's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 28
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From: Edmonton
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by BluJay
I hate to drag up an old post but I saw a mushy pedal was referanced above and the bleeding was a remody for that.

What about a hard pedal, my other jeeps/trucks have a softer pedal that can be pressed easily and the truck stops easily.

MY new jeep has new pads all the way around but the pedal is hard to press all the way down and come to full stop, espically if you are going fast to quick stop.
My old Chev suffered from that. Turned out to be the brake booster had lost its seal and therefore could no longer generate vacuum. $65 and two hours fighting seized and hard to reach bolts with very basic tools in the parking lot fixed that. Could also be a failed ABS module or brake master cylinder if you're unlucky. I would check the booster first.
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Old Sep 21, 2015 | 01:12 AM
  #18  
BluJay's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 48
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From: Phoenix / AZ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 PTE
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Originally Posted by weswins
My old Chev suffered from that. Turned out to be the brake booster had lost its seal and therefore could no longer generate vacuum. $65 and two hours fighting seized and hard to reach bolts with very basic tools in the parking lot fixed that. Could also be a failed ABS module or brake master cylinder if you're unlucky. I would check the booster first.
Had a feeling it might be that, I am going to look into the GC booster upgrade. Can probably get one for same cost at junkyard.
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